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Cliffs of Insanity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are There Rocks Ahead  T 
As you wish T 
Back to the Beginning T 
Broken Brain T 
Brute Squad T 
cave route  T 
Dirty Spaniard, The T 
Fairy Dust T 
Farm Boy T 
Fezzik  T 
Fire Swamp, The T 
Funny Farm T 
Gilder T 
Hors D~oeuvres T 
I've Seen Worse T 
Inconceivable T 
Inigo Montoya T 
Iocane Powder T 
Iron Lady Tower, The T 
jew fro an a boner T 
Jumping the Shark T 
Lobotomy T 
M.C.'s Hammer T 
Man In Black T 
Mawwage T 
Nurse Rachet T 
Nutter T 
Offwidth Your Head T 
Pit of Despair T 
Prepare To Die T 
Prince Humperdinky T 
Princess Buttercup T 
Puzzle Factory T 
R.O.U.S T 
Six Fingerd Man T 
Storming the Castle T 
Str8 Jacket T 
To The Pain T 
True Love T 
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
Unknown 10+ T 
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 
Use Your Head T 
Vinciny T 
Wiggins I T 
Wiggins II T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
Page Views: 617
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 7, 2012

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


You might feel like you've had a Lobotomy after climbing this OW to finger endurance fest! Easy stemming gives way to #6 Camalot fist stacks in a flare followed by some knee rests. Next comes the dreaded #4's with steep hand stacking that gradually tapers down to fists, hands, ringlocks and finally fingers at the anchor. Bring your A-game!


Two routes left of Str8 Jacket.


Singles .5 to #3.5 two each #4 (one old and one new work best), three each #5 (two new, one old if you have it) & #6 (Camalots).

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By Ryan Z
Feb 24, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This is an awesome climb! I definitely would not bring doubles from fingers to #3 next time I do it. You want as little gear as possible on you for the #6 section. Your gear will get caught on everything. One of the cruxes for me was just flipping gear from one side to the other over and over as you alternate sides. Get on this enduro OW fest!
By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
Oct 29, 2014

Singles .5 to #2, double up on #3 and triples #4 to #6. I used a green bigbro for the third #6 sized piece, placed perfectly at the lip of the little roof feature - bomber.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Oct 2, 2015

Just climbed this again and made an update to the gear beta as others have commented on. I also feel confident that this route is solid 11+ when compared to other Indian Creek routes.

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