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 ADVANCED
Sharksfin
Select Route:
Big Tears T 
Blood in the Water T,S 
Hammerhead T,S 
Loan Shark T 
North Face T 
Religious Zealot T,TR 
Sharkstone T 
Sleeping with the Fish S 
Walking with the Pope S 
Yellow Butterfly S 

Loan Shark 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 428
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Jul 13, 2008

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Loan Shark - On the knobby upper face.

Description 

Loan Shark climbs the steep south face of Sharksfin on big knobs and is a ton of fun. My old Kimball Lumpy guide calls this 5.8, but it was much easier than the North Face route. Kimball says you can climb the right-facing corner at the right edge of the face. That looked inviting from below (and you could continue with no gear on big knobs up the southeast arÍte), but from above, looking down, it looked pretty difficult.

Location 

Approach from the north side via the gully below the east face of Sharksfin. We started the climb via short corners on the southeast edge of Sharksfin, since we had to climb on a folded 9mm (our other 9 was stuck at the rap anchor). You can instead start at the bottom of the south face.

Protection 

Trad with one old pin about half way up. Nuts and small cams. Belay at the southeast rap anchor.


Photos of Loan Shark Slideshow Add Photo
Finishing the slightly runout first half. We started in the corners at the bottom of the photo, but the official start is further left and lower. Religous Zealot 5.9 is the left facing corner on the east face at the right of the photo.
Finishing the slightly runout first half. We start...

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By Mikelsons
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I climbed through the dihedral on the SE corner. It was 5.8. At its top I moved left onto the face. The pin is still there, and there are a few place to places protection below it. Above the pin the climbing is runout. There are two rap anchors one consists of two rusty pins and the other a tangled mess of webbing. We added a new piece of webbing to the tangle and rapped to the East. A single 60m easily reached the ground.