Loan Shark climbs the steep south face of Sharksfin on big knobs and is a ton of fun. My old Kimball Lumpy guide calls this 5.8, but it was much easier than the North Face route. Kimball says you can climb the right-facing corner at the right edge of the face. That looked inviting from below (and you could continue with no gear on big knobs up the southeast arÍte), but from above, looking down, it looked pretty difficult.
Approach from the north side via the gully below the east face of Sharksfin. We started the climb via short corners on the southeast edge of Sharksfin, since we had to climb on a folded 9mm (our other 9 was stuck at the rap anchor). You can instead start at the bottom of the south face.
Trad with one old pin about half way up. Nuts and small cams. Belay at the southeast rap anchor.
Finishing the slightly runout first half. We start...
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I climbed through the dihedral on the SE corner. It was 5.8. At its top I moved left onto the face. The pin is still there, and there are a few place to places protection below it. Above the pin the climbing is runout. There are two rap anchors one consists of two rusty pins and the other a tangled mess of webbing. We added a new piece of webbing to the tangle and rapped to the East. A single 60m easily reached the ground.