Loaf & Jug
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Going for the crux. Photo by Tyler Kaschke
Mind blowing and open 24 hours a day.
I don't know why this route only gets two stars in most peoples' minds. I thought it was pretty awesome. Definitely a great route for those rising through the ranks of harder climbs that require a thinking cap and the ability to nut up. TECHNICAL! The crux is the route finding. Climbers have to continuously think about moving right just as the proper face climbing begins out of the crack. A crux down low, just when the route really starts to feel exposed, might not get you pumped but will get you thinking, "Am I gonna peel off this thing and fall into the abyss below? Is my knot tied right?"
Unlocking the sequence behind the mid-opening moves gives you an endorphin rush and a proper kick in the pants to keep moving. The route gets committing real quick. There are a few WTF moments that take place on this route in between fun moves and pretty decent rests if you milk them in a creative fashion. This route also has the potential to be scary enough that you might just leave a loaf in your shorts because you can't reach that jug.
The unfair (and very committing) moves that finally get your freaked-out brain to the anchors really makes this route worth doing. The best part of a route should be the ending and this climb has a pretty good one. Definitely worthy or a lap or two and definitely memorable. Nothing really defines this route as being completely out of the ordinary but it really stands out as having its own character and appeal factor. A good route for those who want to get used to the feelings of desperation while engaged in a route at a letter grade that is harder than normal for them. GET ON IT!
Second route on the wall if you hiked up Trail One, glanced at the famous 5.9+ climb known as Totally Flaked and thought, "Naw...we should try something harder" and kept heading right.
But while we are at it, one should consider the following shopping list. Do Totally Flaked first and then go do two routes on sick, black stone on the far right hand side of The Head Shop Wall. If you sent all three of those routes on the Head Shop Wall you should really consider just hopping on Loaf & Jug because it really is a hoot.
If you hiked up Trail 2 because you were attracted to either Yippie-Kiy-Yay and you had someone in your party who really wanted to try The Joker, then Loaf & Jug should really be on your ticklist. If you are still in the need for that level of climbing head to The Read Light District by walking past The Gully of Biblical Proportions, The Trail of Tears Wall, and an easy to miss area known as Purgatory. Going this way makes this route one of the last on the wall. Easily identifiable as one of the least overhung routes in this area dominated by a large, bouldery roof.
Loaf and Jug actually has the same start as Naked at 7-11, which goes at 5.8 and is a better route than Fossil Logic. If 5.8 is feeling good then head right for Loaf and Jug or straight up to get Naked at 7-11. All of these equals a pretty good time.
9 bolts. Open Anchors.
Mike Cronin goes shopping for good holds on Loaf a...