Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Schoolroom Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bungle, The 
Bushwhack Crack 
Callitwhatyouplease 
Chicken Rodeo 
Great Ripoff, The 
Hatchet Crack 
Heaven's Gate 
Hook Direct, The 
Hook Variation, The 
Hook, The 
Knobs to Gumbyland 
Lizzie Borden 
Mantel Variation 
Mind Blow 
Movie Variation 
Playing Hooky Var. 
Recess Variation 
Rumba, The 
Schoolroom 
Schoolroom Chimney 
Schoolroom Direct Variation 
Schoolroom Roof 
Schoolroom West 
Scourge, The 
Stone the Crows 
Talus Food 

Lizzie Borden 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
FA: Alan Bartlett, Shari Schubot 1984
Page Views: 769
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 28, 2005
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: The bottom crack is Hatchet Crack.
The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Just barely left of Hatchet Crack is Lizzie Borden. It basically climbs the crack/groove system on the left as it angles to the rappel ledge of Schoolroom rappel. It starts the same as Hatchet Crack, and then diverges along a fun ramp. It is very tempting to clip a bolt or two from The Rumba as they are in your face. Climbing stays consistent through the bottom two-thirds. Fun crack and groove work with some face climbing thrown in. 2 warnings: Not a lead for a 5.9 leader, and don't pass up gear opp's on the consistent part (bottom 2/3's).


Protection 

There are chains at the top (Schoolroom rappel), but gear is needed for the route. Pretty standard rack, but bring 1 large cam. The "Book" says a 4 inch. That didn't quite suffice. I shoulda brought a 5 inch, cause my 4" cam popped when my second fell below it. I was darn sure it wouldn't hold. Oh well. A couple of runners helped also.



Comments on Lizzie Borden Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 29, 2005

Nice Nathan! Always wanted to do this route, but never knew much about it. Why isn't it for a 5.9 leader? runout? no gear? Just curios what you meant by that.

By Nathan Fisher
Sep 29, 2005

Concerning the "not for the 5.9 leader"... I wouldn't say it is runout, but close. The 5.9 move was on a small nut that was not easy placement. And the 4" cam comment by Ruckman was wrong. I didn't have a 5" with me and I am not sure if it would have mattered if I did, due to the flaring nature of the crack, and without that piece you are making another funky move with long fall potential. I belive my comments to my belayer were, "Alright, watch me. This cam is gonna pop if I fall, and it's gonna be a fun one. *insert nervous laugh*".

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 29, 2005

Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like another character building LCC gear route! Nice work!

By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Sep 29, 2008

I have to agree about that nut placement. The placement itself seems pretty solid but the rock seems a little bit suspect to me. It is a pretty commiting with so so feet..after that it eases up quite a bit. I thought the move going from hatchet to Lizzie was a bit awkward as well. This route follows more of a seam than a crack on the lower section. Thus the gear is a little more challenging.