Lizzie Borden 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| FA: | Alan Bartlett, Shari Schubot 1984 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Sep 28, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: The bottom crack is Hatchet Crack.
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Just barely left of Hatchet Crack is Lizzie Borden. It basically climbs the crack/groove system on the left as it angles to the rappel ledge of Schoolroom Rappel. It starts the same as Hatchet Crack, and then diverges along a fun ramp. It is very tempting to clip a bolt or two from The Rumba as they are in your face. Climbing stays consistent through the bottom two-thirds. Fun crack and groove work with some face climbing thrown in. 2 warnings: Not a lead for a 5.9 leader, and don't pass up gear opp's on the consistent part (bottom 2/3's).
Protection There are chains at the top (Schoolroom rappel), but gear is needed for the route. Pretty standard rack, but bring 1 large cam. The "Book" says a 4 inch. That didn't quite suffice. I shoulda brought a 5 inch, cause my 4" cam popped when my second fell below it. I was darn sure it wouldn't hold. Oh well. A couple of runners helped also.
| Comments on Lizzie Borden |
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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 29, 2005
| Nice Nathan! Always wanted to do this route, but never knew much about it. Why isn't it for a 5.9 leader? runout? no gear? Just curios what you meant by that. |
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 29, 2005
| Concerning the "not for the 5.9 leader"... I wouldn't say it is runout, but close. The 5.9 move was on a small nut that was not easy placement. And the 4" cam comment by Ruckman was wrong. I didn't have a 5" with me and I am not sure if it would have mattered if I did, due to the flaring nature of the crack, and without that piece you are making another funky move with long fall potential. I belive my comments to my belayer were, "Alright, watch me. This cam is gonna pop if I fall, and it's gonna be a fun one. *insert nervous laugh*". |
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 29, 2005
| Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like another character building LCC gear route! Nice work! |
By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Sep 29, 2008
| I have to agree about that nut placement. The placement itself seems pretty solid but the rock seems a little bit suspect to me. It is a pretty commiting with so so feet..after that it eases up quite a bit. I thought the move going from hatchet to Lizzie was a bit awkward as well. This route follows more of a seam than a crack on the lower section. Thus the gear is a little more challenging. |
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