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Schoolroom Area
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Bungle, The T 
Bushwhack Crack T 
Callitwhatyouplease T 
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 
Hatchet Crack T 
Heaven's Gate T 
Hook Direct, The T,TR 
Hook Variation, The S 
Hook, The T 
Knobs to Gumbyland S 
Lizzie Borden T 
Mantel Variation S 
Mind Blow T 
Movie Variation T 
Playing Hooky Var. T 
Recess Variation T 
Rumba, The T 
Schoolroom T 
Schoolroom Chimney T 
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Schoolroom Roof T 
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Stone the Crows S 
Talus Food S,TR 

Lizzie Borden 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett, Shari Schubot 1984
Page Views: 813
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 28, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: The bottom crack is Hatchet Crack.
The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Just barely left of Hatchet Crack is Lizzie Borden. It basically climbs the crack/groove system on the left as it angles to the rappel ledge of Schoolroom rappel. It starts the same as Hatchet Crack, and then diverges along a fun ramp. It is very tempting to clip a bolt or two from The Rumba as they are in your face. Climbing stays consistent through the bottom two-thirds. Fun crack and groove work with some face climbing thrown in. 2 warnings: Not a lead for a 5.9 leader, and don't pass up gear opp's on the consistent part (bottom 2/3's).


Protection 

There are chains at the top (Schoolroom rappel), but gear is needed for the route. Pretty standard rack, but bring 1 large cam. The "Book" says a 4 inch. That didn't quite suffice. I shoulda brought a 5 inch, cause my 4" cam popped when my second fell below it. I was darn sure it wouldn't hold. Oh well. A couple of runners helped also.



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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 29, 2005

Nice Nathan! Always wanted to do this route, but never knew much about it. Why isn't it for a 5.9 leader? runout? no gear? Just curios what you meant by that.

By Nathan Fisher
Sep 29, 2005

Concerning the "not for the 5.9 leader"... I wouldn't say it is runout, but close. The 5.9 move was on a small nut that was not easy placement. And the 4" cam comment by Ruckman was wrong. I didn't have a 5" with me and I am not sure if it would have mattered if I did, due to the flaring nature of the crack, and without that piece you are making another funky move with long fall potential. I belive my comments to my belayer were, "Alright, watch me. This cam is gonna pop if I fall, and it's gonna be a fun one. *insert nervous laugh*".

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 29, 2005

Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like another character building LCC gear route! Nice work!

By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Sep 29, 2008

I have to agree about that nut placement. The placement itself seems pretty solid but the rock seems a little bit suspect to me. It is a pretty commiting with so so feet..after that it eases up quite a bit. I thought the move going from hatchet to Lizzie was a bit awkward as well. This route follows more of a seam than a crack on the lower section. Thus the gear is a little more challenging.