Lizard Marmalade Direct
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One of the best trad pitches on the mountain and a must do. The gear placements are there but may not be right where you want them which provides for a real thrill.
Right and downhill from the sport climbs at the left of crag. Up the large left-facing dihedral w/cracks, take the smaller crack almost straight up and slightly right at ~15-20 feet. Down-climb tree off the backside of the formation to get down (if is it still there).
The line to the right of the chimney, all the way ...
Geir Hundal placing pro on this long climb
That was a super fun climb!! I love Mt Lemmon!!! M...
Getting ready for the main course.
|Comments on Lizard Marmalade Direct
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2007
Memorable route, and memorable route name!
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 12, 2009
This climb is fantastic; it is perhaps the best single pitch climb on Mount Lemmon! Doubles of small cams are helpful on this one if you'd like a lot of pro.
|By Bladrey Chan|
Apr 12, 2009
there is also a set of anchors on the east side of the tower to rap from. be careful accessing them as they are on a sloping ledge. nothing too scary, but it wouldn't be fun to slip.
From: Tucson, Az
Dec 5, 2009
You can rap off the belay bolts too (into the gully w the trees).
A bit of a hard pull to get the rope back but that's about it.
P.S. Please don't take the biner left on the anchor, it's there for community use.
Jan 14, 2010
The tree is doing well, looks better than 10 years ago... it's pretty easy to use a rope through the anchors to help get into the tree, then pull when still high in it(saving lots of rope wear). Mondo Classic route!!
|By Ben Venter|
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 5, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
One of the best routes in Southern Arizona for sure. A few exciting thin moves in the middle to a steep, juggy and interesting finish. Engaging to the last move. Double cams from tips sized to thin hands did not feel excessive. Single 1, 2 and 3 camalot and a set of nuts. A little spicy in the middle but the good placements are there. The downclimb into the tree was exciting but quite secure.