Lizard Marmalade Direct 5.10+
| 3,305 page views
Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 135 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | John Steiger, Ray Ringle |
| Submitted By: | WSnyder on Mar 22, 2006 |
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A classic frightener - and that's just the down cl...
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Description One of the best trad pitches on the mountain and a must do. The gear placements are there but may not be right where you want them which provides for a real thrill.
Location Right and downhill from the sport climbs at the left of crag. Up the large left-facing dihedral w/cracks, take the smaller crack almost straight up and slightly right at ~15-20 feet. Down-climb tree off the backside of the formation to get down (if is it still there).
Protection Gear
The line to the right of the chimney, all the way ...
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Geir Hundal placing pro on this long climb
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That was a super fun climb!! I love Mt Lemmon!!! M...
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Getting ready for the main course.
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| Comments on Lizard Marmalade Direct |
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2007
| Memorable route, and memorable route name! |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 12, 2009
| This climb is fantastic; it is perhaps the best single pitch climb on Mount Lemmon! Doubles of small cams are helpful on this one if you'd like a lot of pro. |
By Bladrey Chan
Apr 12, 2009
| there is also a set of anchors on the east side of the tower to rap from. be careful accessing them as they are on a sloping ledge. nothing too scary, but it wouldn't be fun to slip. |
By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Dec 5, 2009
| You can rap off the belay bolts too (into the gully w the trees).
A bit of a hard pull to get the rope back but that's about it.
P.S. Please don't take the biner left on the anchor, it's there for community use. |
By MattB
Jan 14, 2010
| The tree is doing well, looks better than 10 years ago... it's pretty easy to use a rope through the anchors to help get into the tree, then pull when still high in it(saving lots of rope wear). Mondo Classic route!! |
By Ben Venter
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 5, 2011
rating: 5.10+
| One of the best routes in Southern Arizona for sure. A few exciting thin moves in the middle to a steep, juggy and interesting finish. Engaging to the last move. Double cams from tips sized to thin hands did not feel excessive. Single 1, 2 and 3 camalot and a set of nuts. A little spicy in the middle but the good placements are there. The downclimb into the tree was exciting but quite secure. |
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