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The south facing wall that lies between the Altered States Gully and The Fin. Although lacking in shear quantity of climbs, this wall does offer the climber a couple quality crack lines as well as an absolutely delightful slab climb. You will almost certainly be guaranteed solitude as well.
We followed the approch to Altered States Gully which included finding a cairn about 100 feet to the east of the church archives road. The cairn marks a good trail that puts you high in the gully. We then dropped down the gully until an westward traverse can be made to the next south-facing wall. This is it.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Lizard Head Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lizard Head Wall:
Squeeze My Lemon 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch
Zesty 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Blue Collar Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 185'
Unknown Slab/Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Errant Edge 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Unknown Slab 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Manager's Special 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Cashmere Crack 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Delicacy 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Zigzag 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Featured Route For Lizard Head Wall
Squeeze My Lemon 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Lizard Head Wall
As you approach Lizard Head Wall, this climb is the obvious vegetated splitter hand crack located on the east side of the wall. Start in the bushes on a right slanting ledge that gains a flaring splitter crack. Fire up this, surmounting the large foliage to a beautiful hands splitter. Continue following this crack until it trends left and runs out. Make a step left into a short dihedral with......you guessed it......great hands again. Follow this to a tree anchor. Descend the route easily ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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