Living on the Edge
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A 60m rope is recommended, especially if one wants to do the 10c bowl. Gain the ledge directly below the triangular roof. Crank over via a tiny undercling, and then follow the nose straight up the thin face to the ledge. Move slightly right after the ledge and follow the large crack. Lots of lichen on the 2nd half of the climb make it slightly annoying.
Big runout on trad.
|Comments on Living on the Edge
|By Anonymous Coward|
Mar 19, 2005
Routes on the Brick Wall are great for those who love the feeling of great friction on sparse but sometimes obvious crimpers. I felt that this route was a bit harder than 5.11 b/c and felt that some of the moves could have been as difficult as 5.12 a/b. The beginning of the climb is very enjoyable especially on a sunny spring day. The worst part of the climb is often the beginning moves because you may pendulum into some bushes on a toprope. As you climb up to the roof it does not appear to be particularly complex. Do not be fooled. For those who are under about five foot four you will find the roof to be extremely frustrating but can be solved with a three finger undercling and possibly a right heel hook depending on and individual's flexibility. After completing the arduos roof all of the possible crimps are obvious but you would be a bit more fortunate if it was a cold and friction-friendly day. To reach the anchors following the difficult prow the climbing is possibly easier than 5.8. The last time I climbed this route there was a small wired stopper stuck in a finger crack to the left of the acceptable finish. If an in-experienced intermediate or advanced climber is looking for a challenging and crimpy toprope problem, this route will feel like it was designed just for you.