Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Aftershock Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock T,S 
Legends Never Die S 
Living On The Edge T,S 

Living On The Edge 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 450'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: W. Harding & Partner
Page Views: 7,163
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 28, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Sarah above the big roof on the amazing first pitc...

Description 

This route is a destination climb, and the finest I have done in Snow Canyon. The pitches are each distinctly different in nature, with 3/4 of them each being 2-to-3 star pitches in its own right. The position of the climb is also great, giving a nice view of the area and plenty of exposure.

Hike into Aftershock Wall and find the line of chalk and pins/bolts rising up and left on the right hand edge of a massive arch.

P1: (5.10a, 30M) Start up this first pitch on some insecure moves (5.9). These are unprotected, but close to the ground. After the initial smears, the feet come back on and the hands are locker. make a mantle and clip the first bolt. Climb up and left above the roof formed by the edge of the arch for some distance, clipping bolts and pins along the way to a fixed belay station (chains), even with the apex of the roof.

P2: (5.10c, 32M) start up above this belay on the obvious line of pins and bolts. the line goes up a few moves over the belay to reach the first clip, so be mindful not to fall on your belayer. Pass some poor rock and a little runout (2" cam may help) to reach a slightly crumbly section just below a pod and roof. Pull up and left into the pod and clip a pin around the corner to the left. Pull left onto the face (10c) and follow a line of drilled angles up and left past multiple 5.10 cruxes to reach an fixed belay anchor (chains).

P3: (5.10c, 25M) From the belay work up and right on a ramp to make some relatively easy moves (5.8, runout) to reach the first clip, perhaps 5M up. Do NOT fall before the first clip. Continue up and right to a smooth crux (10c) off of a small undercling before reaching "thank god" holds in the black Patina. Continue upwards and slightly left though an odd mantle (5.9, mental) and then up a face to reach a hidden belay (chains) below the black overhang. This is just left of a single visible bolt of the 4th pitch.

P4a: (5.9+, 30M) From the 3rd belay work up and right past a single bolt (long sling) to reach a crack system. The black patina is hard, but crisp-edged and might fracture away without careful placement of protection. Be mindful that the rope is now turning a sharp corner and might be damaged or cut in an severe or unlucky fall. Work up the crack with plentiful but somewhat tricky pro (offset nuts would have been nice) for perhaps 30M to a fixed anchor (chains) on the left. Keep an eye out or miss it. You can continue...

P4b: (5.6, 30M, S) So you've decided to continue... continue up the wall past some fun and interesting climbing, but mostly not.. past less and less gear opportunity other than some fixed slings... to the top. According to the guidebook, as you arrive on top there will be a 'difficult to find' anchor system just to climber's right of the topout (South). I did not find, nor really look for it. It's actual existence is questionable to me, considering the other errors in the book I will not digress into the discusion of, presently. Rapping from here may or may not be possible.

To descend:

From P4b: See pitch note for P4b. A walk-off may be the only real option, or perhaps walkign far enough to find the anchors on the top of something on Circus Wall.

From P4a: Rap ~30M to the anchors for P3. Not tested with a 60M Advise 2 ropes or a 70M.

From P3: Rap ~30M (less) to the anchors on P2. A single 60M line will almost certainly make it.

From P2: Rap ~30M to a set of EXTRA anchors at a height even with those at the top of P1, but to the left and above the apex of the arch. From there to the ground. Neither of these has been tested by me with a 60M rope. I again advise 2 ropes or a 70M.

I did not find or look for a top anchor. The book is ambiguous about it's possible presence. If you top out, plan on walking off just in case.

Protection 

This climb is a mixed climb, with three 30-Meter pitches of 5.10 sport (in which a #2 friend can be placed at a slight runout if desired) followed by a gear pitch of 5.9+ on thin gear for either 30M to an anchor or 60M to the top. You will need at least 10 draws + equipment for each station.I fyou intend to rap the route, please consider the advice to take 2 60M ropes.


Photos of Living On The Edge Slideshow Add Photo
First Pitch in evening light. Photo Keith Beisner
First Pitch in evening light. Photo Keith Beisner
Lyndsy on P1
Lyndsy on P1
Craig experiencing life on the edge!
Craig experiencing life on the edge!
1st Pitch: Sandy opening moves lead to big moves on varnish just above the lip of the roof
1st Pitch: Sandy opening moves lead to big moves o...
Joseffa Meir is 'Living On The Edge' (10c) of Aftershock Wall. P1 is not hte hardest, but is definately the most photogenic pitch.
Joseffa Meir is 'Living On The Edge' (10c) of Afte...
Annie following up the airy 2nd pitch to the fat belay
Annie following up the airy 2nd pitch to the fat b...
Lisa Pritchett leading the first pitch of Living on the Edge
Lisa Pritchett leading the first pitch of Living o...
Kelly and I years ago on Living On the Edge.
Kelly and I years ago on Living On the Edge.
Tony Bubb follows on P1 (10a) of 'Living On The Edge' (10c) at Aftershock Wall in Snow Canyon. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 11/03.
Tony Bubb follows on P1 (10a) of 'Living On The Ed...
Tony Bubb closes in on the top of the 1st pitch of 'Living On The Edge.' Photo by Joseffa Meir, 11/03.
Tony Bubb closes in on the top of the 1st pitch of...
Living on the edge!
Living on the edge!
Tony Bubb gets a peice of trad gear in just before he starts up the crux section of the 'choss pitch' (a short section of it) on 'Living On The Edge' (10c) in Snow Canyon. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 11/03.
Tony Bubb gets a peice of trad gear in just before...
The beginning of the "walkoff" descent.
The beginning of the "walkoff" descent.
Tony Bubb turning the corner on P2, the 'choss pitch' of 'Living On The Edge' (10c) in Snow Canyon. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 11/03.
Tony Bubb turning the corner on P2, the 'choss pit...
Annie coming up the 4th pitch crack
Annie coming up the 4th pitch crack
The 2nd pitch has some airy moves moving through the bulge. A 0.5 & 0.75 camalot are nice to sew up the "loose" section.
The 2nd pitch has some airy moves moving through t...
Don't pull too hard on the "car door" flake on the 3rd pitch!
Don't pull too hard on the "car door" fl...
Joe nearing the anchor on the airy P2.
Joe nearing the anchor on the airy P2.
Just moved through the crux.
Just moved through the crux.

Comments on Living On The Edge Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 2, 2014
By tenesmus
Jan 7, 2004

Two 60's will work fine for the rappel from part way through that last pitch. It is a fun face climb with an easy crack pitch that climbs like a face climb at the end. Every pitch is fun - especially the first two. Did this years ago as one of my first multi-pitch climbs, and it remains one of my favorites. Sort of like a poor boy's Prince of Darkness but steeper and much shorter.

edit (1-11-09) to say 1)you can do it in 3 raps with a 70 as Tony mentioned, 2)if I'd known the anchors had so much tat on them I'd have brought 3 sets of chains. The 4th pitch anchors were especially bad and we left a draw to back them up as the webbing was half-way sawed through 3)Tony is right about that hand-sized piece off the 2nd belay as the rock is... well you can imagine - really soft sandstone and plugging in a cam would be nice in case pulled off an enormous jug in there like we did. An ideal rack would be medium nuts and .3,.4,.5,.75,1,2 camalots and 4 or so long runners to supplement 10 qd's. Finally, 4)What's up with all the chopped bolts right by replaced bolts on the first pitch?
By L. Hamilton
Mar 21, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Also unlike Prince of Darkness, each pitch has its own personality. The 5.10 comes up pretty soon on pitch 1. Pitch 2 gets more wildly exposed; I've seen several leaders fall apart and hide out on the pro. For me, pitch 3 is most memorable, with that touch-it-carefully car-door flake.
By Teleman
From: Steamboat Springs, CO
Apr 18, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I have done this climb several times and still find it interesting, varied and fun. If you skip P3 you are missing a unique and delicate pitch. The right traverse moves almost off the deck will test your smoothness and faith in friction.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 29, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Classic climbing for sure! Go for the top and do all 4 pitches. The first pitch is amazing every time you look at your feet. One of my favorites in Snow.
By kayakscum1
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great climb but beware the wind. We rapped off in two raps with double ropes. When we tossed the ropes from the anchors of the 4th pitch, the gusty wind blew them off route. Getting them unstuck from the hook like chicken heads was a half an hour ordeal. The rope falls easily past the chicken heads on route, but was a pain to get off the uncleaned chicken heads to climbers left. If you are climbing near dusk and it is windy, you may want to coil your rope, sling it, and let it pay out as you rappel to save time.

Aside from that, it is a great climb!
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Mar 7, 2011

Definitely do the whole route, don't just rap after 2 or 3 pitches. The "walkoff" is thrilling in and of itself. A few words about the route. The pitch labeled 4b in this description is really just a 4th class scramble. We felt totally comfortable unroping here. As for the walkoff, it takes some exploring as it is more of a canyoneering descent. From the top of the 4th class pitch follow cairns south and then east down a bushy gully, then back up north where you find a fixed rope. Lots of 4th/5th class downclimbing, though no rapelling is necessary will get you down. Look for the roman numeral "III" carved in the rock with the occasional cairn to guide you down. It took us about 30 minutes not having any knowledge about it. Fun if you like adventure walkoffs. Save you the stress of potential stuck ropes/hauling 2 ropes up the wall.
By Christian Weaver
Jan 9, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a classic climb and a must-do if you are in Snow Canyon. I still need to do the 4th pitch. I have added my description of the route at VerticalCountry.com
By Samuel Abbott
Mar 5, 2012

Just a few notes. The anchors at the top of the third pitch are not chains, but just two bolts. Also, the last rap station on the way down doesn't have a rap ring or chains, just two bolts. And the left bolt on that station is a little sketchy. Awesome climb.
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I only did the first pitch, and it was one of my top-5 routes of all time. It is a must-do in life. The holds/moves are all there. Definitely a 5.10a.
By uncasid
Jan 3, 2013

i dig this route.. only did first pitch, next pitch looked awesome.. first pitch was commiting + airy for a fantastic lead, bolts in just the right spots
By Corykelley
Sep 18, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

P1 MUST READ CLIMBING TIPS!

Here's some info that I wanted to know before I climbed it 2 days ago, but couldn't find it on here:

A brief on me: I'm 5'10" @ 150lbs. This is was my first time leading the P1 but my second trip climbing there.

P1 has the need for about 10 quick draws (Bring 12 just to be safe). It's topped with 2 anchors and a single chain. It feels like a 5.10c when leading (fear factor), but top roped it only feels like a 5.10a.

The first draw is about 10ft above the ground, but it's not that hard to get a comfortable position to clip into it. The hardest draw for me to get to was #6. (SEE PIC FOR MORE INFO)

It's best to get there when it's shaded (before noon or late evening) because my buddies and I literally BURNT our fingers climbing it in the sun.

I used a 60M rope and had about 4 meters to spare after coming down.

MOST of you are good at this but PLEASE stick to the trail. The ecosystem here is very fragile. There is a bathroom about a 30 sec. drive down the road from this climb.

Living On The Edge P1
Living On The Edge P1
By Levi Call
From: Saint George Utah
Mar 7, 2014

You CAN rappel to the ground from the top of the arch with one 60 meter rope. I simul climbed the first 3 pitches in about 25 minutes with one sixty meter rope. Keeping about 40 feet of rope between myself the leader spaced us out well so we didn't hit the cruxes at the same time. We had a bit of a scare on the way down because it was almost completely dark and we were not sure if we could rap all of the way to the ground from the top of the arch. This is an awesome climb if you don't mind exposure. But hey, you are on bolts.
By mtnsoceans
From: Ivins, Utah
May 23, 2014

Climbed to the top with my wife yesterday. Great route! Every pitch is entertaining, and the rating was fair The descent was "interesting." We'll forego the 4th pitch, and only climb the 1st three in the future. Yep, that expanding/detached flake on the 3rd pitch is thought provoking and worrisome. Just don't use it. Ha!
By Cha Tate
From: Saint George, UT
Sep 2, 2014

Changing out tat anchor for new webbing
Changing out tat anchor for new webbing
By Cha Tate
From: Saint George, UT
Sep 2, 2014

I was up at the top of the 5.9 portion of the fourth pitch and replaced the tat with 1" webbing. Anchor is solid now. All other anchors are all Metolius Rap Anchors and are fine. Did three raps with a 70M rope. Great route.