Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Bank
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2010A 
2150 A.D. 
5.10 Crack 
5.10a corner 
5.11 Arete 
5.9 crack 
A Sharp 
Abu Simbel  
Aerial Solution 
Alcohollica  
Alfalfa Omega 
Another Bolted Crack 
Aoxamoxoa 
Apple Cracks, The 
Aspiring Frog 
B Flat 
B/C 
Baby Face Nelson 
Back To The Future 
Bambi Meets Godzilla 
Binge and Purge 
Birthing the Piggy 
Bits and Pieces 
Black Hole Sun 
Bum Cakes (formerly listed as Buns) 
C Major 
Cat Ate My Homework, The 
Cerebral Brain Freeze 
CJ & The Lesbian Seagull 
Concentrated Weirdness 
Courage and Enlightenment 
Crab Nation 
Dancin` Shoes 
Dave Dangle 
Deconstructing Harry 
Dillinger 
Disciples of Hell 
Doggie Style 
Don Show, The 
Dust Lust 
Emperor's Robe 
Energy Before Ecstasy 
Ethics? What Ethics? 
Flesh Tuxedo 
From Russia With Love 
Future Fossil 
Gambino 
Gen X ation (aka Musso Route) 
Generation X 
Goodfellas 
Harry 
Heaven is Waiting 
Heavy Weather 
Heretic 
Hostile Crankover 
Ice Cream Hangover 
Incredible Weather 
jasonbecker.com 
Knot Too Many Roaches 
Ladies' Night In Buffalo 
Large Marge 
Le Petit Verdon 
Le Pincher 
Lefty 
Lesser of Two Evils 
Let Me Out 
Leverage 
Lick and a Promise 
Lime Street 
Living in America 
Lloyd 
Lost Planet Airman 
Loves Me Like a Rock 
Lynch Mob 
Ma Barker 
Machine Gun Kelly 
McFly 
Metamusso 
Mighty Mouse 
Misery 
Mismatched Partners 
Neopolitan Headrush 
New Comer (aka New Corner) 
No Future for the Timid 
No Rest For the Wicked 
Number 1 Super Guy 
On the Mushroom 
Once Upon a Time 
Otis 
Peking 
Pennies and Piggydust 
Peter Pan 
Pig City Nights 
Pink Torpedo 
Piņon Slalom 
Plate Tectonics 
Poncho 
Poncho and the Three Perverts 
Power Broker 
Pretty Boy Floyd 
Primal Scream 
Project Focus 
Puking Yuppies 
Purple Packer Smacker 
R.A.M.M. 
Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab) 
Richter Scale 
Ripped 
Rock Frog 
Scarf and Barf 
Scarface 
Season Down Under 
Shady Character 
Shelfish 
Solitude 
Sonic Youth 
Soprano 
Sparkle In The Rain 
Starving Hippies 
Staying Power 
Stick It 
Stomach Stapler 
Stormy Weather 
Stranger in Moscow 
Sty in the Sky 
SuedeHead 
Surreal Estate 
Sweepings, The 
Taping Tendons 
Team Anorexia 
Tendon Respite 
This is Your Brain 
Thunder Tactics 
Thunder Thighs 
Tired Arms Recovery Program (T.A.R.P.) 
Tribal Boundary 
Trundle 
Tuff Shed (aka B&C) 
Unknown 5.7 
Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) 
Unusual Weather 
Ussen 
War In The Banks 
Welcome to Shelf Road 
What's Biting Me? 
Who Asked You? 
Why Left 
Will Purr For Treats 
You Were Meant For Me 
Unsorted Routes:

Living in America 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'antonio and Richard Aschert
Page Views: 1,026
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

Awesome climb just right of crack in the center of 2150 wall (Ripped 10c 4" no stars). Living ... belays just off of the tree, Taping Tendons (11c/d) is to right. Direct start to first bolt is 12d. Standard variation is to stem up the crack, reaching over to clip the first bolt, then traversing just right of the bolt to tackle the sequential crux. Don't worry, it may give you a brief rest after this, but it doesn't ever completely let up until you are at the anchors.


Protection 

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Stick clip 1st bolt IF doing direct start.



Comments on Living in America Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Collins
Oct 18, 2004

So, how does the 12a version go? I initially tried traversing from the pillar on the left with my hands in pockets at the 2nd bolt (there are 8 or 9 bolts on the route now). Moving up here was desperate, and felt way harder than 12a (harder than the cruxes of several 12+ Gym routes I tried the day before). I finally ended up climbing to the top of the pillar and traversing in with hands in pockets near the 3rd bolt, which felt reasonable, though reachy.

This route, along with all the others on 2150 wall, are VERY sharp (great routes though!), and should probably be avoided on your second day "on" at Shelf.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 15, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I felt the same way. Originally I tried to traverse right at the second bolt like it says in the book, but this felt contrived and much harder than .12a. Went back to the jug and climbed up until my feet were on it at the third bolt, then traversed onto the face. This felt like the most natural way to climb this thing, and about right for the grade.

The direct start is heinous. Couldn't figure it out.