This route is located in the Book Binding area immediately around and left from George's Tree and takes the splitter crack just right of the shallow dihedral start of Dead Boy. The protection is excellent, mostly bomber and easy to place nuts. The first pitch is awesome and described below. However, the guide calls the 2nd pitch "excellent 10a", though it looked somewhat junky to me.
Climb the thin crack to a difficult bulge with flaring finger and hand jams (burly 10+). Cop a rest above the bulge and climb the tips crack past a crux (11b) that is more hard-to-figure-out than actually hard. Rappel from the two-piton anchor or continue with the 2nd pitch.
Small to medium stoppers. Set of cams up to #2 Camalot.
On the alleged crux which felt several letter grad...
The upper crux is mostly face climbing with left h...
Hanging out on the classic cracks of Living Dead a...
Aug 30, 2002
The second pitch is good especially after you get going. It's a lot like the first pitch but easier. Follow the left leaning finger crack from the pins on top of pitch one. Off the belay it's a little committing .9ish climbing off a good nut. The 10a is delivered near the top of the pitch. This pitch would get better with more traffic, it's got a couple vegetables and crispies down low. It might be a good idea to bring some fresh webbing for the top anchor.
Sep 16, 2002
The left of the two pins at the top [first pitch] could use replaced. It's solid now, but looks a bit dubious. Would have done it yesterday if we'd had one in our crew... If you head up there to do this, take pliers to move the chain to the new pin as well.
Also agree that the top anchor could use some fresh webbing - and a bit of re-adjustment. [Slings are at the top of the second pitch (same finish as for Dead Dog Direct).] As it is now, most of the weight is taken by the backup knot shoved in a crack above the horn. If you head up there - I'd take enough to replace this and reinforce the webbing slinging the horns (maybe 4'?).
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 6, 2003
The "10+" start to this route (10c in one guidebook) seemed just about the hardest 10+ in the world to me. About a grade harder than the upper crux.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 27, 2003
Both pitches now end at stations with two new stainless bolts with stainless rap rings. From the second pitch anchor it is about 102ft to the ground. We barely made it with a single sixty meter line. Both pitches are excellent. The second pitch is wild and unusual for lumpy.
|By Nate Christiansen|
Aug 14, 2003
This is one of those non typical lumpy climb(bulges, vertical). the first crux was way harder than the top crux. switch the 2 cruxes around and give the first one 5.11c. i also remember saying sorry to my fingers after pulling that bulge. very texured rock
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 11, 2004
The three climbers in our party all felt that the crack/bulge sections was way harder than the thin crack/slab above. The lower crux involves sequency hand and feet moves combined with nasty hand and finger jams.
See Road Kill for a photo of this and nearby routes.
|By Bob Rotert|
Oct 9, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Good route, but as with most posts here, I would not agree with the rating. I can see a lot of people feel the first crux, which I believe was rated 10c in [Gillett's] guide is harder than the supposed 11b upper crux. I would almost agree. Lower crux is definitely more strenous & painful the upper crux is more technical but not as hard if you have good footwork & stay calm. To help with a consensus rating I would rate this climb 10+ or maybe 11-. If you think this is 11, you're really in for a surprise when you get on Dead Boy Direct or Corner Pump Station.
|By Jeff G.|
From: Fort Collins
Jul 3, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
I agree with the book ratings on this one. The bottom is burly but seems about 10d. The top is thin, balancy, and pretty tenuous, I would give it 11b.
|By Jarrett Tishmack|
Jul 25, 2006
Fun route. I think the bottom part is harder, or at least as hard as the top. Really only about 2 moves through the 10+. Pump isn't a factor.
From: Pinewood Springs
Jul 26, 2006
After leading 1st pitch on sight, (and falling) I agree that the upper section is harder than the lower section. Fiddling with small nuts while hanging on to small finger holds. While the lower section is more pumpy but not as diffcult to lead due to good locks and key hand jams. The pocket at the top near the last move helps to make this climb 4 stars.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 29, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Bottom part is burly, top part is balancy. Both take great gear, making this an excellent route to push your limits on. Take full rests to recover fully between hard moves to stay fresh.
Sep 12, 2010
I only TR'd this. However, on TR, I agree with the previous comments, the bottom is more difficult than the top - cranking through the bulge on $#!) fingers is pretty tough.