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Winter Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Living All Over Me 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Tom Ramier
Page Views: 3,384
Submitted By: Adam Therneau on May 22, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Crux moves at the first bolt.

Description 

This route is a strong contender for the best route at Red Wing. Short, but powerful and sustained, with excellent moves on good rock; Living All Over Me is a change from the delicate, crimpy climbing that is so common on other hard routes at the bluff. Flat edges lead from the ground to the first and overall crux of the climb; a powerful boulder problem pressing into a nasty gaston, getting into a tiny undercling, and then lunging for a great incut edge. Shortly after, a rest is reached that allows you to shake out and chalk before committing to the second boulder crux; a powerful reach into a good undercling followed by a huge low percentage bump up and right to a good edge. A few more moves up the arete and it's in the bag. The true crux of the route lies in sticking the dicey lunge near the top despite the fatigue of sending the more powerful lower section. Extremely solid at the grade by the bluff's standards, Living All Over Me is a true Red Wing classic.


Protection 

bolts



Photos of Living All Over Me Slideshow Add Photo
Ted Kryzer on Living All Over Me. May 2010.
Ted Kryzer on Living All Over Me. May 2010.
Summer 05? Looks like some low foot beta is in order.
Summer 05? Looks like some low foot beta is in ord...
A shot from May 2005 to show how short this climb really is.  I am within 10 feet of the anchor.  Doesn't feel short while you're on it.
A shot from May 2005 to show how short this climb ...
Comments on Living All Over Me Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Nov 13, 2006
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

A benchmark 12b for the cliff. Very solid.

By Adam Therneau
Nov 15, 2006

Best route at redwing, in my opinion. Very bouldery and very solid for the grade. This one's not getting downgraded. My longest project at the bluff.

By Jonathan Williams
From: Palo Alto, CA
Mar 5, 2007
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Technical, demands good footwork and body tension. A great route.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 30, 2007
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Agree with Adam. Classic at any crag, my favorite at Red Wing, and THE benchmark 12b. Funny thing about this climb, I either felt totally solid or completely flailed, no in between. If you want to work this, you can put a TR on it from the 11b-ish bolted arete to the right.

By Adam Therneau
Jun 21, 2007

I decided to describe the sequences that most people use, even though I also have seen both of them done numerous ways. In fact, I used a sequence similar to the one you did Chris. I reached to the sidepulls out right as well, but I found it hard to switch feet and reach up with the left hand because I was so gassed from the rest of the climb that my hand would open on the positive but small sidepull. Instead I used the sidepull as an intermediate and bumped my right hand up to the good edge. This was still pretty hard and non-static for me, but felt way easier than the full on throw, which I believe Kris used when he sent it. Anyhow, all the variations on this climb feel hard to me and when I sent, it still all came down to whether I could stick that move on the link.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 27, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

rack one draw on your right for the first bolt. other three draws on your left. otherwise, clipping with your right is difficult, awkward, slow, pumpy, etc. too bad this climb is so short! enjoyed it.

By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Oct 30, 2011

Man this a tough little route, def felt harder than mississippi burning and substantially harder than preemptive strike. Fun bouldery movement, on slick feet.

The grading at barn bluff is all over the place. Some routes are absolutely laughable at the grade, while others, such as this one ....