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Black Corridor
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Unsorted Routes:

Livin' on Borrowed Time 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steagall, Sandefur, Werner, & Sobocan - 1990
Page Views: 1,670
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 1, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the belay...

Description 

This fun little route is the last one on your right when facing Rebel w/o a Pause and climbs past a very obvious crescent-shaped hold. The first clip is tough.


Protection 

A few bolts to a lower-off. Be careful on the first clip!



Photos of Livin' on Borrowed Time Slideshow Add Photo
Delaware dirtbag Nick tryin his way up through the mono pockets to the second bolt.
Delaware dirtbag Nick tryin his way up through the...
Myself on Living on Borrowed Time. A fun lead. Photo Andy Hansen
Myself on Living on Borrowed Time. A fun lead. Pho...
Comments on Livin' on Borrowed Time Add Comment
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By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
May 22, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

This route is no longer the last route to the right of "rebel." However, if you look for the crecent-shaped hold you can easily find the start.

By Chris DeWitt
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 28, 2011

Sandbagged. The first two moves feel more like 5.12a/b.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Mar 28, 2011

If I recall correctly, this thing is kind of a pile. I think its a sandbag at 11c (probably more like 12-) and the hard climbing lasts for two or so moves and then its over. On top of that, the "monos" look suspiciously like drill work (if the pockets are not drilled, my apologies to the FA's).

By Chris DeWitt
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 28, 2011

Agreed. I was belaying and the leader was clipping the second bolt while pinching the left monos and then he called for fall (missed the clip and dropped the rope). That's probably the fastest I've had to run in years...

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 28, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

huh, i never even noticed those mono pockets- i always climbed the obvious features to the right, then moved left at the second bolt- its probably .11c/d that way, and the second bolt is a tough clip- but thats what stick clips are for, right? it is, after all, the corridor.

By Jonathan K
Apr 21, 2011

I agree this is an awesome short sport climb true to the grade just don't get deceived by the chalk leading left to low

By Shawn M
Aug 30, 2011

As far as I am aware, most people start straight then veer left. If you go straight, the route is definitely quite hard. For the two years or so when I was in Vegas, I rarely saw anyone (or any chalk) trying the route straight-- most people look at it, look at Rebel, look at it, and then then climb Rebel. In fact, until your posts from March 2011 above, I didn't even know anyone else climbed this thing.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Dec 16, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

I thought this route was very good. Intricate and balanced movement combined with a bit of power make this a really solid route and high in the grade- if not slightly sandbagged. It might be a bit confusing as to which holds are "on" when looking at the route from the ground but the obvious movement will reveal itself once you're on the route. Despite what others have said I feel this route does let up but does not fall into the "easy" range. Still around 5.10 climbing after the 3rd bolt.