Livewire 5.10c/d
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Mark Wilford and Steve Mammen, 1985. Retrobolted |
| Submitted By: | Scott Matz on Sep 15, 2008 |
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Fun in the sun always a good time at the River Wal...
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Description This route starts following an arete leaning right, soon traversing left into a mean offwidth protected by the third and forth bolt. The next lead out section can be climbed with little pro up to an 1 1/2". or just ran out to the last bolt (5.8+) just under the roof of Introducing Meteor Dad.
Location This is the route just left of Introducing Meteor Dad. It has a two bolt anchor.
Protection Climbing 4 bolts to a hollow flake. Gear up to an 1" or so. Caution, place at the bottom of flake (wiggly at top). Traverse back right to last bolt, and this climb shares anchor with Introducing Meteor Dad.
By Bernard Gillett Sep 16, 2008
| The route described here is Live Wire (not listed on this site), climbed by Mark Wilford and Steve Mammen in 1985. Someone retro-bolted the route in the last couple years (4 bolts at the bottom, followed by a finger crack, and then two bolts at the top -- these last two bolts protect 10 feet of original climbing, as Wilford and Mammen likely finished out to the left). |
By Cale Farnham From: loveland,CO Sep 29, 2008
| Great route, really run-out after the last bolt but all the moves are there! Was wondering why there weren't bolts for this climb at the top, had to share the anchor with "Introducing Meteor Dad". Overall good moves thought the crux was about mid-way up through the left-facing dihedral! Pretty thin hands and smeary feet! 2 thumbs up! |
By Scott Matz From: Loveland, CO Oct 1, 2008
| Great start, somewhat exposed, had to place some small gear before the last bolt I got skerd. |
By Scott Matz From: Loveland, CO Nov 3, 2008
| Thanks G. I love the finger crack, and the lay backs, but the top could use some work. The last ran out bolt, to the shared anchor of Meteor Dad, they might as well have put another anchor up, since they ruined the original route, and now confusing others. |
By Jeff G. From: Fort Collins May 1, 2010 rating: 5.10c
| This is a really good pitch, well worth doing. Almost as good as Meteor Dad IMO. |
By half-pad-mini-jug From: crauschville May 2, 2010
| I agree, this is a really fun pitch, but I still like Meteor Dad a little better. |
By Garrett Bales From: Lake City, CO Apr 7, 2012 rating: 5.11a
| There is no way this is 10c, the final move over the roof to the anchors is a little thin for ten. Even if we we're in Eldo. |
By justin dubois From: Estes Park Dec 9, 2012
| It's really bad style that this route was retro-bolted. It's a beautiful and interesting line, and never too dangerous. Clipping bolts on this only detracts from the experience. The bolters also tried to force you to climb right, where the natural line obviously stays a little left, where there is plentiful gear and holds. Almost worthy of a chop. |
By edward corder Dec 31, 2012
| I agree, Justin, this is a pleasurable trad climb and protects well; no rhyme or reason to sidetrack on a gay adventure. |
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