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Live Free or Die 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 609
Submitted By: Simon Thompson on Sep 26, 2011
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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By Ben Brotelho
From: Albany, NY
Feb 8, 2012

Slippery crack! but fun

By Drake Pregnall
From: Lake Placid, NY
Jul 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13

This is a super easy climb to set up a toprope on. If you want to get a bold lead in though, this climb certainly has the elements. I certainly believe it was 9+ when it was first done, but the polished crimps and slippery crack have upped the ante in my opinion.

GEAR BETA WARNING: A #5 BD Stopper is the first real piece you can get in at around 12 feet. There is a tiny slot just a few feet below where the finger crack properly starts. It is not obvious at all, so hopefully me pointing it out makes people feel a little more encouraged to give this one a go. No need to run it out all the way from the ground to the crack for gear.

By Jay Harrison
Dec 7, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13

This is another BW route besmirched by a no-pro start and a bad landing. Definitely 5.10 territory with its "popular polish"; and no gear until you've done the hardest moves. Still, it isn't over once you reach the crack: there's a lot of challenge stuffed into this short length.