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The Weasel Formation
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Little Weasel Spire T 
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Rooster, The T 
Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. T 
Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 

Live Free or Die Tower 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C2 [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg, Paul Ross, Andy Ross, Gene Vallee, 4th May 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,697
Submitted By: USBRIT on May 11, 2009

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The camp site

Description 

The climb is named after the official motto of the State of New Hampshire. First used in a toast by General John Stark in 1809 when he said "Live Free or Die: Death is not the worst of evils." All four climbers at one time or another lived in NH for several years; Gene was born there, Jim still lives there. Jim wanted to climb a virgin tower ..so we gave him one of our projects! He loved carrying the drill... The route therefore is dedicated to all the New Hampshire climbers who after practicing on the granite they prepared them selves for the rigors of the sandstone and contributed to so many new climbs in the SW deserts of Utah..

The route starts at the right-hand end of the Weasel formation. It climbs the very impressive crack system up Wingate-quality rock.

P1) Mixed aid (8 bolts) and free up the offwidth crack to reach double anchors 5.9 C2 180' (This pitch might go all free at about 5.11).

P2) Continue up the crack now less steep for about 50' to the second bolt in the left side of the chimney, biner and sling in place. From here lower down and tension/climb down to the left to reach cracks leading to an overhanging notch. Up this to double anchors. 5.8 C2. 100' NOTE: Due to the angle best to leave a rope fixed tight to the anchor top of the first pitch for the descent.

P3) The crack continues up to the left to reach the summit area. 5.6 80'. (rap anchors on right edge)

P4) A short 30' pitch to the true summit. 5.6.

Downclimb the couple of moves. There is a register in a cairn in a groove on the big ledge about 40' below the true summit.

Descent: Rap the route.

Location 

The Weasel formation has three separate summits; this route climbs to the previously unclimbed eastern summit. Northern San Rafael Swell. See info on the drive to campsite below the Weasel.

Protection 

Desert rack from 1/2", with two #5 Friends and two #6 Friends. Slings. Two 60m ropes. Etc.


Photos of Live Free or Die Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Gene rapping down
Gene rapping down
The Routes :- A) Ozymandias. B) Live Free or Die.
BETA PHOTO: The Routes :- A) Ozymandias. B) Live Free or Die.
Swell wild cat
Swell wild cat
Andy coming up first pitch
Andy coming up first pitch
View from the climb looking towards the  Belfry Tower, near the end of the Pinnacle formation.The smaller tower at the very the end of the formation is Sodizin Tower.
View from the climb looking towards the Belfry To...
starting second pitch
starting second pitch
The team L to R Paul,Gene,Jim,Andy
The team L to R Paul,Gene,Jim,Andy
Jim and Paul on the second  pitch
Jim and Paul on the second pitch
Camp
Camp
Coming out of the notch on Pitch 2
Coming out of the notch on Pitch 2
#%$@# this &$@%@   .photo Jim Shimberg
#%$@# this &$@%@ .photo Jim Shimberg
Last bit onto the true summit
Last bit onto the true summit
Jim on the first pitch
Jim on the first pitch
Jim happy with the first ascent of a desert tower
Jim happy with the first ascent of a desert tower
Looking down to the camp site
Looking down to the camp site
The approach . Gene on his pray mat. A) Horus Tower B)Ozimandias.C)Live Free or Die.
The approach . Gene on his pray mat. A) Horus Towe...
Paul starting the third pitch. photo Jim Shimberg
Paul starting the third pitch. photo Jim Shimberg
Paul heading for the summit. photo jim Shimberg
Paul heading for the summit. photo jim Shimberg
Looking down first pitch . photo Jim Shimberg
Looking down first pitch . photo Jim Shimberg
Jim coming up third pitch
Jim coming up third pitch
Jim in desert heaven.
Jim in desert heaven.
Andy on pitch three
Andy on pitch three

Comments on Live Free or Die Tower Add Comment
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By DaveB
May 11, 2009

Congrats. Nice photos, description, beta, etc.
By greg t
Dec 19, 2013

Climbed this route in May 2011. I lived in NH for many years, and thought it was fitting to climb this. A good desert adventure. I lead the OW pitch with ease by pulling on a #6 in spots. My partner tried to free it on TR, and being not the best OW / chimney climber nearly puked from exhaustion. Amazing summit view.