Live Free or Die Tower
||Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C2 [details]|
|FA: ||Jim Shimberg, Paul Ross, Andy Ross, Gene Vallee, 4th May 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,814|
|Submitted By: ||Little Chamonix on May 11, 2009|
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The climb is named after the official motto of the State of New Hampshire. First used in a toast by General John Stark in 1809 when he said "Live Free or Die: Death is not the worst of evils." All four climbers at one time or another lived in NH for several years; Gene was born there, Jim still lives there. Jim wanted to climb a virgin tower ..so we gave him one of our projects! He loved carrying the drill... The route therefore is dedicated to all the New Hampshire climbers who after practicing on the granite they prepared them selves for the rigors of the sandstone and contributed to so many new climbs in the SW deserts of Utah..
The route starts at the right-hand end of the Weasel formation. It climbs the very impressive crack system up Wingate-quality rock.
P1) Mixed aid (8 bolts) and free up the offwidth crack to reach double anchors 5.9 C2 180' (This pitch might go all free at about 5.11).
P2) Continue up the crack now less steep for about 50' to the second bolt in the left side of the chimney, biner and sling in place. From here lower down and tension/climb down to the left to reach cracks leading to an overhanging notch. Up this to double anchors. 5.8 C2. 100' NOTE: Due to the angle best to leave a rope fixed tight to the anchor top of the first pitch for the descent.
P3) The crack continues up to the left to reach the summit area. 5.6 80'. (rap anchors on right edge)
P4) A short 30' pitch to the true summit. 5.6.
Downclimb the couple of moves. There is a register in a cairn in a groove on the big ledge about 40' below the true summit.
Descent: Rap the route.
The Weasel formation has three separate summits; this route climbs to the previously unclimbed eastern summit. Northern San Rafael Swell. See info on the drive to campsite below the Weasel.
Desert rack from 1/2", with two #5 Friends and two #6 Friends. Slings. Two 60m ropes. Etc.
BETA PHOTO: The Routes :- A) Ozymandias. B) Live Free or Die.
Andy coming up first pitch
View from the climb looking towards the Belfry To...
The team L to R Paul,Gene,Jim,Andy
Jim and Paul on the second pitch
Coming out of the notch on Pitch 2
#%$@# this &$@%@ .photo Jim Shimberg
Last bit onto the true summit
Jim happy with the first ascent of a desert tower
Looking down to the camp site
The approach . Gene on his pray mat. A) Horus Towe...
Paul starting the third pitch. photo Jim Shimberg
Paul heading for the summit. photo jim Shimberg
Looking down first pitch . photo Jim Shimberg
Jim coming up third pitch
May 11, 2009
Congrats. Nice photos, description, beta, etc.
By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Dec 19, 2013
Climbed this route in May 2011. I lived in NH for many years, and thought it was fitting to climb this. A good desert adventure. I lead the OW pitch with ease by pulling on a #6 in spots. My partner tried to free it on TR, and being not the best OW / chimney climber nearly puked from exhaustion. Amazing summit view.