Live and Let Live  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  ??? Season:  Shady all day every day. Submitted By:  Tony B on Jun 12, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is an interesting climb in an odd position. It has good rock and good protection to a fixed anchor. This would be a reasonable lead for a beginning trad leader.

After approaching the upper tier via the approach pitch, walk Eastward past "My Clone...", "Real Men...", and "Storm Watch". A leaning pillar just past these obscures a tight, right-facing corner with a clean crack in it. Climb up this cave/corner/chimney exiting though a wide slot up top (not a squeeze) and head right onto a ledge. Head back left (3-4" cam for protection) onto a ledge formed by the top of the pillar that created the cave, and then up the easy slab above this (5.3 move with no pro above the ledge) to a bolt-and chain anchor. Belay here then rap off to the climber's left of the pillar.

Location 

This route is on the upper tier of the South Face of The Heap, obscured behind a leaning pillar.

Protection 

Mostly cams from 1-3.5" and a few longer slings.