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Beacon Rock
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Old Warriors Never Die 
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Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) 
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Winter Delight 
Young Warriors 

Little Wing 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1985 Jim Opdycke, Robert McGown, Mark Cartier
Page Views: 900
Submitted By: Geoff-cyclewolf on Jul 22, 2011
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Beacon Rock is only open to climbers from July 15th through February 2nd due to peregrine falcon nesting. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

In a corner up and left of the classic SouthEast Face route is this gem of a climb. Little wing is probably deserving of 5.8 plus, and definitely of CLASSIC status. Gain the slag ledge via climbing some fun finger, hand cracks and slab. Don't forget to protect your second before traversing right to the anchors! Links up wonderfully with either Jill's Thrill or SouthEast Corner, or even Fear of Flying if you are up for the challenge.


Location 

Left of SouthEast Corner, below Fear of Flying. Beacon!


Protection 

Takes smaller cams, nuts, and gear up to 2 inches



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By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Sep 25, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

The first few times I did this route I accidentally switched onto the Southeast Corner route. To stay on Little Wing, make sure you look for the finger crack up and left as you near the top of the initial 'pillar' of rock that you're climbing. Once you finish this finger crack you can place a couple pieces and traverse right to the snag ledge belay.

By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Aug 24, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This route is short but sweet! To extend the fun, continue up the first pitch of Fear of Flying or Right Gull, both 10a, and both easily combined with a single 60m.