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This is a sunny little cliff surrounded by talus on the north side of the Valley just west of Ribbon Falls. The rock quality is excellent, as with all Yosemite cliffs, and is awesome on winter days. Little Wing can be seen from Southside Drive at the meadow just east of Furn Spring.
Access this cliff from the Old Big Oak Flat Road (now just a trail) via a service road .2 miles west of El Cap Meadow. Either park in a cleared area next to the road, or drive up the service road, past the wood yard and the authorized vehicle only signs until large stumps and rocks block the road. At this point walk past the stumps / rocks and head diagonally west and up through several slide areas and talus slopes. After 15-20 minutes of hiking, the cliff should be visible just north of the road. Walk up a small trail through the talus 100ft to the cliff which should be on your right. There are two other cliffs associated with little wing: The first, is 200ft up and west. It offers good beginner cracks. The second, is around and up to the east.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Little Wing:
The Riddler 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Little Wing 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Little Wing
This is a great thin line. The crux is down low Passing a rooflet and a small left facing section. You are on your tips here and the feet are small and slick. Continue up and to the left. Some parties rappel from slings around a block and/or horn, and some traverse over to the anchor bolts on top of the Riddler/Leisure Time to rap. An excellent pitch well worth the time to hike there. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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