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This is a sunny little cliff surrounded by talus on the north side of the Valley just west of Ribbon Falls. The rock quality is excellent, as with all Yosemite cliffs, and is awesome on winter days. Little Wing can be seen from Southside Drive at the meadow just east of Furn Spring.
Access this cliff from the Old Big Oak Flat Road (now just a trail) via a service road .2 miles west of El Cap Meadow. Either park in a cleared area next to the road, or drive up the service road, past the wood yard and the authorized vehicle only signs until large stumps and rocks block the road. At this point walk past the stumps / rocks and head diagonally west and up through several slide areas and talus slopes. After 15-20 minutes of hiking, the cliff should be visible just north of the road. Walk up a small trail through the talus 100ft to the cliff which should be on your right. There are two other cliffs associated with little wing: The first, is 200ft up and west. It offers good beginner cracks. The second, is around and up to the east.
8 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Little Wing
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Little Wing:
The Riddler 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Little Wing 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Little Wing
Scuz Ball, Squeeze-n-Tease, L.D. Getaway, and Andy Devine are located (in that order, from left to right) on an unnamed cliff a couple hundred feet uphill and west of the main Little Wing formation. All of these routes are of mediocre quality, usually featuring some good climbing mixed with some not-so-good climbing. If you want a cliff with sunny moderates and zero crowds, this isn't a bad choice. There are rap slings on a tree above Andy Devine, which is the easiest way to descend.-----...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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