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King of P 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a [details]
FA: P1:1960s.
Page Views: 1,158
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 25, 2006
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King of P is a nice little crack that is not Littl...
A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Williams Wall at the far end of the Nears has many fine climbs that would be quite crowded if found nearer to the road. This area is somewhat like the Guides Wall area in the Trapps. It is easily recognized as the clean, appealing slabby area near the end of the cliff.

This route is at the far end of this pleasant area. It is cleaner than many in the area and avoids the large, slightly loose overhanging section common to other routes around it. The descent to the left is relatively short and easy. There is some loose rock near the top so be careful with beginners. Start at the appealing finger crack instead of the line shown in the guidebooks. A good route for a beginning leader.

This is commonly done in two short pitches.

P1: Climb the crack to a large tree. 5.3, 75'.

P2(Little White Mushroom): Continue up to the roofy area and left to the top. 5.3, 50'.


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack.



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By Tim Schafstall
From: Newark, DE
Apr 22, 2008

This is not Little White Mushroom. LWM begins in the corner 15 left left of this crack.

The crack described here has been left out of all recent guidebooks, probably because until about 1992 or so it was extremely dirty. The climb will be included in the soon-to-be-released Williams' guide, though I do not know the real name or FA history.

It is a nice little route though and about 5.3 as described. If you look closely, you can tell it is actually a small fault, not just your normal crack (look for slickensides in the crack).

Can also be used to set up a TR on LP, assiming directionals are placed.

By JSH
Administrator
Jan 1, 2014

I changed the name of this entry to King of P, as Dick called it that in his most recent book. The second pitch described here is still Little White Mushroom, so I've noted that in the description.