|The Weasel Formation
Little Weasel Spire
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 230', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a C1 [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross Layne Potter . May 7th 2008|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||952|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on May 8, 2008|
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BETA PHOTO: The Little Weasel spire is located on the far left...
Climbs a connected spire at the far east end of the Weasel formation . Good rock fine situations.P1). The route climbs the north side .Starts below some grooves that lead to an obvious crack system that leads to the gap below the headwall.Up a short thin crack then another groove to a ledge with good cam belay left of the long crack.70'5.7. P2)Move left and gain the crack which was climbed using a #4,#5,#6 friends cam. These were slid ,odd one was pulled on to reach double anchors..(will go all free) 5.9 AO. 100'P3)Climb up left and ascend the headwall with use of 2 cams 4 bolts and two threads to a fine summit 5.5 C1 60'. Register in hole 2'below summit. Rap to the top of P2 then full rap to the ground.
See description of approach to Ozymandias. The Little Weasel spire is about 5 mins past this start to the east. Walk around the end of the formation to the north side.
Cams 1/4" to two#4 two#5 one#6 Friends. Slings. two 60m ropes.
Terriers on belay at the start of first pitch Angry Rattle Snake tripped over on way back to cam...
On the summit looking north
Starting the 100' crack pitch 2 BETA PHOTO: Closer view of the spire from the south On the summit looking south
|Comments on Little Weasel Spire
Jun 18, 2010
No known second ascend ascent as of June 2010