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 ADVANCED
The Weasel Formation
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Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. 
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry 
Devastator Tower 
Horus Tower 
Little Weasel Spire 
Live Free or Die Tower 
Ozymandias 
Rooster, The 
Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. 
Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The 

Little Weasel Spire 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 230', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a C1 [details]
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter . May 7th 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 961
Submitted By: USBRIT on May 8, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: The Little Weasel spire is located on the far left...

Description 

Climbs a connected spire at the far east end of the Weasel formation . Good rock fine situations.P1). The route climbs the north side .Starts below some grooves that lead to an obvious crack system that leads to the gap below the headwall.Up a short thin crack then another groove to a ledge with good cam belay left of the long crack.70'5.7. P2)Move left and gain the crack which was climbed using a #4,#5,#6 friends cam. These were slid ,odd one was pulled on to reach double anchors..(will go all free) 5.9 AO. 100'P3)Climb up left and ascend the headwall with use of 2 cams 4 bolts and two threads to a fine summit 5.5 C1 60'. Register in hole 2'below summit. Rap to the top of P2 then full rap to the ground.


Location 

See description of approach to Ozymandias. The Little Weasel spire is about 5 mins past this start to the east. Walk around the end of the formation to the north side.


Protection 

Cams 1/4" to two#4 two#5 one#6 Friends. Slings. two 60m ropes.



Photos of Little Weasel Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Terriers on belay at the start of first pitch
Terriers on belay at the start of first pitch
On the headwall pitch 3
On the headwall pitch 3
Angry Rattle Snake tripped over on way back to camp
Angry Rattle Snake tripped over on way back to cam...
On the summit looking north
On the summit looking north
Paul top of first pitch
Paul top of first pitch
Nearing top of Pitch 2
Nearing top of Pitch 2
Starting the 100' crack pitch 2
Starting the 100' crack pitch 2
Closer view of the spire from the south
BETA PHOTO: Closer view of the spire from the south
On the summit looking south
On the summit looking south
Layne topping out
Layne topping out
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By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Jun 18, 2010

No known second ascend ascent as of June 2010