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Little Valley

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Bride, The 
Bull Canyon 
Dry Fork of Bull Canyon 
Frankenstein 
Gooney Bird, The 
Groom, The 
Little Valley Routes 
Mollymawk Tower 
Pinky Tower 
Shabazz Palace 
Whisky Caps, The 

Little Valley Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 7,132
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Mar 21, 2007
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A mom and her baby near Roberts Rift in Little Val...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Little Valley, as it is defined here, is a hanging valley above US-191 about 7 miles north of Moab. You pass though it when on the Gemini Bridges Trail. The rock here, and in its side canyons, is Wingate. However, the cap rock that protects the Wingate from erosion is mostly gone, so it's not as solid as we like our Wingate...more like Navajo...or even Entrada.

Getting There 

Drive 8 miles north of Moab on 191. Hang a left onto the Gemini Bridges Road. It's rough and dusty. Sometimes a 2WD can do it, but often the road requires clearance. Follow the Gemini Bridges Rd. for a couple of miles uphill until it empties into a "little valley." Bride Canyon is a side canyon in the valley.

Climbing Season

For the Moab Area area.

Weather station 1.5 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Little Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Little Valley:
Ring Sizer   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Pinky Tower
Tea Party   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   The Gooney Bird
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Little Valley

Featured Route For Little Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one.

Babylon Rave 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C2+  UT : Moab Area : ... : Shabazz Palace
This is a striking path that ascends the SE face of the Shabazz Palace. The route essentially follows three cracks which open and shut; when one crack closes another opens up allowing further progress. Some soft rock is encountered but for the most part is pretty good. There are several roofs to be negotiated and the entire route overhangs 30 feet or so.P1: Ascend the crack system through some soft rock passing a short roof. Above the crack pinches shut- I hammered two pins here but su...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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