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GPS: 40.40266, -105.52391
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Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Great toproping (or leading) a couple minutes west of the old Twin Owls parking lot. Now, it lies probably 0.8 miles from the new trailhead. To set up topropes, scramble around either side to the back, and follow your nose to a short chimney between the two little owls, each of which sports a set of bolts. I find scrambling around to the right a bit easiser; both ways are fifth class, so don't do anything stupid. All the routes are worthwhile, with the "Finger Crack" being the most...memorable.

Getting There Suggest change

From the new parking lot, head west towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.8 miles. Once at the old Twin Owls parking lot, this small crag is just to the west split by a wide crack on its southeast face. Expect ~15-20 minutes.

Per Dom R: a detailed description from the old parking lot (just past the NPS housing) - continue hiking on the Black Canyon trail, follow Batman Rock trail briefly, and go right at a split to the Tooth and Jaws Boulders and the base of Little Twin Owls. For boulderers seeking Angry Man, just after you turn onto the Batman Rock trail is an old park service sign. Follow an old trail uphill for a few minutes into a rocky area.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Little Twin Owls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 12
Tooth Slab
Boulder
V0 4
 19
Tooth Arete
Boulder
V3 6A
 6
Clingon
Boulder
V3 6A
 30
Jaws
Boulder
V8 7B
 6
Angry Man
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Undercling Right
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 50
Finger Crack
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
 13
Arete
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tooth Slab
 12
V0 4 Boulder
Tooth Arete
 19
V0 4 Boulder
Clingon
 6
V3 6A Boulder
Jaws
 30
V3 6A Boulder
Angry Man
 6
V8 7B Boulder
Undercling Right
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Finger Crack
 50
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, TR
Arete
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X Trad, TR
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