This route is located just uphill from "Index/Middle/Heel Toe" and is found on a large detached pillar/fin. This is the leftmost of the 3 routes located on this Fin. Traverse in from the left or jump to the good jug to be able to clip the first bolt, paste high feet to get ontop of this rib and then head right to clip the 2nd bolt. From here continue up and right a little to reach the good edge to clip the 3rd bolt, watch the feet out to the left around the 2nd bolt, as they seemed a little flaky and may come off, just be aware. Head up from the 3rd bolt to easy terrain, continuing past the 4th bolt onto the anchors to the right edge of the Fin. This route is a nice warm up for some of the harder routes, will get the blood going a little.
4 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.
This is just uphill from Index/Middle/Heel Toe on a separate fin. It is the leftmost bolted line on this fin.
Joel Larner stepping up on the first moves. Photo...
Just past bolt 2.
Joel Larner at the crux move. Photo by Ian Dory.
My wife, making the crux move.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 24, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Although this route is very short, it's still enjoyable. A few fun moves lead to the thin fingers crux then it mellows out.
Also a good way to get a top rope up over Pockets Full of Cryptonite if so desired.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
I was a little surprised that this route and 'Pocket Full of Cryptonite' were separated by a full number grade. I did not find them to be quite so different. This climb required some considerable effort, and I would have put it in at 11c. Fun though!
|By Matt Richardson|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 9, 2008
Matt and Tony's comments remind me of something Crusher said about Positively Fourth Street - that different climbers have different strengths when it comes to different styles. And while I would love for this to be 11c, it just doesn't hold up to other climbs in the 11/11+ range - Staying Power and No Passion for Fashion at Shelf are both solid 11s and the best I can muster is to fall my way up these.
That being said, this is a fun route with beautiful moves right off the ground on the flake. The first 20-25' are fairly cruxy - thin and balance-y. I think this would get a great from me if the route was longer than 40'. The final traverse to the anchors though easy is still a little spooky; you could probably plug a piece in near the top if you so desired.
Oct 3, 2011
Not that it matters in the slightest...I have a feeling that some of the key feet around the second bolt may have disintegrated somewhat. I did Pocket Full...right after, and it felt a bit easier to me. Could be just stylistic! Both fun, but too short!