|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 40'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Andy Brown, Rick Guerrieri, 1996|
|Submitted By:||Jeff Lockyer on Nov 8, 2001|
|Comments on Little Toe Jam||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 24, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Although this route is very short, it's still enjoyable. A few fun moves lead to the thin fingers crux then it mellows out.
Also a good way to get a top rope up over Pockets Full of Cryptonite if so desired.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
|I was a little surprised that this route and 'Pocket Full of Cryptonite' were separated by a full number grade. I did not find them to be quite so different. This climb required some considerable effort, and I would have put it in at 11c. Fun though!|
By Matt Richardson
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 9, 2008
Matt and Tony's comments remind me of something Crusher said about Positively Fourth Street - that different climbers have different strengths when it comes to different styles. And while I would love for this to be 11c, it just doesn't hold up to other climbs in the 11/11+ range - Staying Power and No Passion for Fashion at Shelf are both solid 11s and the best I can muster is to fall my way up these.
That being said, this is a fun route with beautiful moves right off the ground on the flake. The first 20-25' are fairly cruxy - thin and balance-y. I think this would get a great from me if the route was longer than 40'. The final traverse to the anchors though easy is still a little spooky; you could probably plug a piece in near the top if you so desired.
Oct 3, 2011
|Not that it matters in the slightest...I have a feeling that some of the key feet around the second bolt may have disintegrated somewhat. I did Pocket Full...right after, and it felt a bit easier to me. Could be just stylistic! Both fun, but too short!|