|425 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.8- [details]|
|FA: ||James Garrett and Daniel Martig (from the Bernese Oberland), May 2012|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||James Garrett on May 15, 2012|
Though one always hears early in life not to sweat the little things, it seems later it is the Little Things that really matter.
This interesting climb gives you the feeling of "sea side" climbing. It is usually shaded and very cool due to its location. This was a "two brush" route, that is, I wore completely through two stout wire brushes while equipping the line. Will clean up more with traffic, I suspect, as have similar routes at The Slips and Reservoir Ridge. Fun!
Pitch #1: After getting settled at the belay, climb up some edgy and smooth bulges passing 10 bolts to a two-bolt belay, just shy of the rim. 5.8-, 31m.
Situated almost smack dab in the middle between A Modest Man From Mandrake and I Think I Am Going Bald, this bolted moderate may take off some of the pressure on the otherwise very popular and well travelled routes on the Dogwood Crag.
While cleaning and equipping this route, it was observed that as many as 90% of the climbers visiting here approach the climbs from the top and set up top ropes. Little Things must be approached also in this way as the base of the climb is otherwise usually submerged in the flowing water of BCC Creek.
Therefore, walk up to the top of the easily accessible wall, continue past the anchors of the other routes along the rim until you are able to spot the anchors and rappel down to a prominent grassy 1m long x 40cm wide ledge. This is about 3m above the water's edge. A two-bolt belay with a hefty black static rope spanning the two bolts allows for a comfortable belay. A climbing party may choose to top rope or to make it more interesting and conventional, pull the ropes and stack them at the belay and lead the climb.
QDs for 10 bolts. A few additional Aliens or C-3s will really enable the leader to zip it up, but gear placement skills are not obligatory.
One may elect to belay each other from another bolt or gear at the rim to the rappel / belay station.
A 70m rope may be best and is recommended. Don't rap into the water!
|Comments on Little Things
|By Max Dillman|
May 18, 2012
My beginner buddy and i climbed this route yesterday and we both thought it was AWESOME!! IT is very committing for a beginner because you can't give up half-way, lower down, and walk away, unless of course you bring an inflatable and float the rest of the way down the river. I brought a 60m rope and tied a knot just incase and it reached the ledge just fine with ten feet to spare and it was short enough to not end up in the river. So, the 60m seems to be the perfect fit. I thought it was a very stout 5.8. it could be that it still EXTREMELY dirty. Many of the great pinches and crimps are still covered with that very fine climbing crag dust, that never seems to wipe clean with just your hands. I'm thinking of taking and afternoon with another wire brush and broom to help clean it up. Other than the dirt this climb was great! I dont think any additional pro is needed at all. the bolts protect every hairy move very well. It is a great escape from the birthday parties and scout troops down river. For a quick climb it has some fun moves and probably one of the best belays in the canyon.
PROPS to who put it up. Excellent route and thanks for your donation
|By Matthew Washburn|
Jul 2, 2012
I really liked this route but it is still dirty in that fun kind of way ;) also the hanging belay at the bottom is a nifty little setup. I think this route is a great intro to someone that wants to do multi pitch routes because it gives them some experience of being at a hanging belay and it gives the belayer the some experience with rope mgmt by having the rope stacked over the back cord that runs between the two bolts. I thought it was a little harder then 5.8-, the first 15 ft. of the climb makes you think a little more then the average 5.8 routes that I have climbed.
P.S. Great route James.
Jul 3, 2012
Kinda a crap shoot pulling down a 70m and not getting it wet. I managed to pull that off, but not so sure you could every time.