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 ADVANCED
The Great Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bitter Ray of Sunshine S 
Buccaneer S 
Dynabolt Gold S 
Edge-a-Sketch S 
Glory and Consequence S 
La Escalada S 
Ledgends of Limonite S 
Ledgends of Limonite (direct start) S 
Little T-Bone T 
Momma Cindy S 
Ohio Arts S 
Touch of Grey S 
Weapons of Mass Deception T 
Unsorted Routes:

Little T-Bone 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tim Powers, Mike Susko, Jared Hancock, 2004
Page Views: 450
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Oct 7, 2010

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Plugging pro in the juggy crack on Little T-Bone

Description 

This is a great beginners 5.10 trad route. Lots of great pro and tons of jugs to place it from.

Just to the right of Dynabolt Gold, look for a hand crack about midway up the route. Make some difficult moves to start the route to some easy climbing into a large hole. Clip the bolts at the roof of the hole. Be sure to extend the lower bolt for drag. Pull the roof (crux) and get established into the crack above using large plated jugs. Follow the plated jugs around the crack to the anchors.

Location 

In the center of the Great Wall, notice the vertical hand crack about midway up the route. A 60m to get down.

Protection 

Hand sized pro and 3 bolts. Rap anchors at the top.


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By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jun 11, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Quality route! Not just one of those....oh I did this because I had my rack with me. Do this over most of the sport routes on the wall.

Bomber #2 cam in the roof crack to start that you place at a good stance. That's probably the crux, but the rest of the climbing is engaging throughout.