|Below The Old New Place
More sustained than its twin to the left, this great climb offers several hard moves on great rock. Begin the same as for Monsterpiece Theatre. At the 2nd bolt, make a hard right for the first bolt of this route. After clipping the LSOH's first bolt (third total) things get interesting. Some fancy footwork and a good mono lead up to improving holds and a pumpy sequence of continuous cranks. Never super hard, but it doesn't let up till you reach the smooth basalt near the top. After a well-earned shake, a few more balancey moves lead to the top.
Apparently folks used to approach this route via Polyester Terror, the crack to the right. The sport-climbers variation is described here. Rope drag isn't an issue.
Right of Monsterpiece theater, shares first 2 bolts.
5 bolts and 2 bolt chain anchor. Alternatively, bring some finger-sized gear.
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 27, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Anchor replaced 3/27/11. The bolts themselves weren't in too bad of shape, but the homemade hangars were rusting over and were kind of sketchy.