|Below The Old New Place
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More sustained than its twin to the left, this great climb offers several hard moves on great rock. Begin the same as for Monsterpiece Theatre. At the 2nd bolt, make a hard right for the first bolt of this route. After clipping the LSOH's first bolt (third total) things get interesting. Some fancy footwork and a good mono lead up to improving holds and a pumpy sequence of continuous cranks. Never super hard, but it doesn't let up till you reach the smooth basalt near the top. After a well-earned shake, a few more balancey moves lead to the top.
Apparently folks used to approach this route via Polyester Terror, the crack to the right. The sport-climbers variation is described here. Rope drag isn't an issue.
Right of Monsterpiece theater, shares first 2 bolts.
5 bolts and 2 bolt chain anchor. Alternatively, bring some finger-sized gear.
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 27, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Anchor replaced 3/27/11. The bolts themselves weren't in too bad of shape, but the homemade hangars were rusting over and were kind of sketchy.