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 ADVANCED
82 Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afro Samurai S 
Arms Reduction T,S 
Beyond S 
Block Party T,S 
Crimp Chimp T 
Crusty By Nature S 
Dirty Duo, The T 
Doggfather, The S 
Encryption S 
Enter the Dweezil S 
Kid Charlemagne S 
Little Red Hen S 
Politics of Dancing, The S 
Solarium T,S 
Steppin Razor S 
Team America S 
Truffle Hog T,S 
War on Drugs T,S 
Year of the Dog T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Little Red Hen 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Travis Peckham
Page Views: 756
Submitted By: Colin R on Apr 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Next route to the right of the Doggfather. This route has a bit of everything. Start with an in-your-face V5+ boulder problem with some hard clips and a long deadpoint until you reach the large juggy rail. Rest here to de-pump then continue on through some 5.11 face climbing until you get to the final roof problem which is about a V4/5 boulder problem complete with a sketchy mantle-topout to clip the anchors. Full value 12d. Hope to send it someday soon....

Location 

82 crag, 5th route from the left hand side of the wall, just right of the Doggfather

Protection 

Sport


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By alan blade
Mar 18, 2012

Broke a hold off between the 1st and 2nd bolt, definitely harder now but still 5.12d in my opinion. Movement is still the same but the hold is not as good and is 10 inches lower. This could make the move a stopper for shorter climbers.