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82 Steep Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afro Samurai S 
Beyond S 
Crusty By Nature S 
Doggfather, The S 
Encryption S 
Enter the Dweezil S 
Little Red Hen S 
Solarium T 
Steppin Razor S 
Team America S 

Little Red Hen 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Travis Peckham
Page Views: 1,001
Submitted By: Colin R on Apr 17, 2010

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  • Description 

    Next route to the right of the Doggfather. This route has a bit of everything. Start with an in-your-face V5+ boulder problem with some hard clips and a long deadpoint until you reach the large juggy rail. Rest here to de-pump then continue on through some 5.11 face climbing until you get to the final roof problem which is about a V4/5 boulder problem complete with a sketchy mantle-topout to clip the anchors. Full value 12d. Hope to send it someday soon....

    Location 

    82 crag, 5th route from the left hand side of the wall, just right of the Doggfather

    Protection 

    Sport


    Comments on Little Red Hen Add Comment
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    By Greg Kuchyt
    From: Richmond, VT
    May 14, 2016

    CONDITION REPORT 
    While attempting to replace the lower-off setup with pigtails today I discovered the right-hand bolt is a spinner. This means the whole bolt assembly spins in the hole and the mechanical wedge effect isn't functioning properly. It's not ideal but it's unlikely to be immediately dangerous. Best bet would be to not pull outward on this bolt and lower-off keeping the draws clipped. I will replace it in the next couple weeks.
    By alan blade
    Mar 18, 2012

    Broke a hold off between the 1st and 2nd bolt, definitely harder now but still 5.12d in my opinion. Movement is still the same but the hold is not as good and is 10 inches lower. This could make the move a stopper for shorter climbers.

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