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Sunset South
Routes Sorted
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Afternoon Delight T 
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Airbrush T 
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Cobbler, The T 
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Jenga Direct T 
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Little Pearl T 
Mercinary Territory T 
Nickiís Climb 5.4 T 
Northwest Conversion T 
Pancake Flake T 
Pigs in Space T 
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Sinsophrenia T 
Squeeze Box T 
Sunset Sonata T 
Temple of Doom T 
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Wind Walker T 
Unsorted Routes:

Little Pearl 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Walter Forbes - 1981
Page Views: 666
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 13, 2007

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Description 

Tucked away in a little alcove near the end of the Black Magic Buttress section, Little Pearl is a short but fun route. It doesn't get much traffic, probably because of the excellent neighboring lines in the Treasure Chest section, but it's definitely worth doing if you're in the area. Little Pearl is also a good way to get to the top of climbs like Dodge City or Sinsophrenia and set up a toprope if you're not up to leading them.

Starting in the shady alcove, follow the left-facing corner up to a right-leaning flake. Layback the big flake, then on to the top.

Location 

Starts around the corner left of Confederate Arete in an obvious corner.

Protection 

Mostly medium to large gear, up to 5". Anchor using trees at the top.


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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Aug 13, 2007

Seems like anything at Sunset below 5.9 is stiff for the grade, and this route is no exception. I found it a little dirty and covered with spider webs, but with more traffic, the route would clean up nicely and be a worthwhile moderate lead.