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Unsorted Routes:

Little Monster 

Hueco: V13+ Font: 8B X

   
Type:  TR, Boulder, 30'
Consensus:  Hueco: V0- Font: 4- [details]
FA: Dan Dewell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 5,318
Submitted By: Dan Dewell on May 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The spotter is critical!

Description 

This burly beast-of-a-problem is located within ten feet of Erica's Arete on a huge boulder. The potential for a very serious, life-threatening fall is...well, very serious. I debated on whether placing a couple of bolts mid-way up this monstrous boulder problem (thus the name "Little Monster"), but chose to err on the side of the strictest of ethics, since most people trying this will be a solid 5.13d climber and, of course, have at least three spotters and three crash pads (note: in the photo, you'll see only one spotter for me, but don't try this at home...I have the moves wired).

Getting up to the crux is moderately challenging (a mere V9 sequence), then there is one helluva a crux at the lip of the problem which will spit almost every on-comer--unless of course you are the burliest of climbers and techinically astute, then this full-body mantle will be just a measly challenge.

Start with your hands up high and keep your feet on the face of the boulder. I"m not going to give a lot of beta, but you'll move up, and up, and up, then mantle over the lip.

A SPOTTER IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!!!!

See photo for beta...

Protection 

For this problem, it is best to have at least three spotters and three crash pads.


Photos of Little Monster Slideshow Add Photo
Getting established on Little Monster.
Getting established on Little Monster.
Pulling into the mantle on Little Monster.
Pulling into the mantle on Little Monster.
"Little Devil"(V13+)
BETA PHOTO: "Little Devil"(V13+)
Success on something of this magnitude requires a victory scream.
Success on something of this magnitude requires a ...
Here's a picture of "The Man" just finishing his  <br />third set of twenty fingertip one-arm pulls  <br />(warming up)_ before he left home to hit the  <br />Maze and send "Little Monster."
Here's a picture of "The Man" just finishing his
...

Comments on Little Monster Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 27, 2010
By Sande
Jun 19, 2003

V13 translates to about a 5.14d, respectively. Nice Ascent!
By Dan Dewell
Jun 19, 2003

Yeah, thanks. It's my best. V13+ actually comes out to 5.14c/d, but let's not get picky, right. But then again...ratings are everything, aren't they?
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 26, 2003

yowzers! when i was looking at the pics my hands were sweating so bad that i had to chalk up before typing this comment!
By Brad Boner
Jun 28, 2003

Let's see... Dewell "do" or Dewell "don't"?... my conclusion is "camera trickery"... i'll have to see it for myself!
By Dan Dewell
Jun 29, 2003

Oh, Brad. Do I hear (or read, rather) a hint of jealousy in your voice (typing)? Don't be jealous! Just because you are a scaredy-cat on highballs and can't do such technically challenging boulder problems like the superhuman "Little Monster" doesn't mean no one else in the climbing community can, you know. That problem took me a LONG time to send. Many hours of working out the moves, not to mention the number of people I dragged out of bed at the wee hours of the morn (I am Mr. Morning Person) to spot me (and borrow their crashpads and take pictures/video, and, of course, cheer me on...God, there were a lot of you).

And while I'm thinking about it...I'd like to thank all those excellent individuals who came and spotted me and let me borrow their crashpads in case I fell (which I did--from near the top, too! Can you believe it?!!)

I would also like to thank those people who provided the cheering to keep my working up that monstrous problem; whithout you I am sure I would have never made it up. Your cheering inspired me beyond my personal abilities, I believe.

But most of all, I want to thank the photographer who captured my beautiful ass on the rock. Your ability to find "the angle" is unprecedented, and I'm sure the pictures will look perfect (perfect enough for a cover shot on one of the climbing mags? We'll see! Keep your fingers crossed everyone!) But seriously...thanks for getting that f-stop right, and thanks for getting that aperature right, you professional, you. Although you need a little work on the camera lense cover, buddy. Hello!?! (inside joke)

So anyway, Brad. Stop being such a baby. You are such a big baby! Does the big baby need a bottle?
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 30, 2003

Dan, you are my hero! So brave to even try a climb such as that. The climbing community needs more people like you, those who are willing to go out on a limb and try what hasn't been tried before, to boldy go where no man has gone before, to seek new worlds and new civilizations. Seriously though, it is nice to see someone who isn't afraid to laugh, especially at himself. It's unfortunate that there are climbers in this community who 1) don't have a sense of humor, 2) think that they know everything, and 3) voice the opinion of the climbing community as though they know what that opinion is. Bravo! my friend.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 30, 2003

Actually the first ascent of this problem was done in the mid-80's by Mark Jacobs.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 4, 2004

hey dan, i tried your project the other day and realized it is a hot spot for tick infestation. be warned!

next, i heard that parker climbed it after the other supposed FAist when at least 917 of the key holds broke on the '13'. his grade was v-negative-800. go figure. after months of working the sequence, i jumped off just before sending when i realized that it would destroy my coveted scorecard ranking.

still, NICE SEND!
By Bart Cannon
Sep 6, 2005
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Be ready with a #6 Alien on #9 Tri-cam on this sandbag. (I think the Alien was brushed out of the 'summit' photo.)
By 4runner4fun
Nov 11, 2007

is this a joke? in the pictures it looks like its 3 feet off the ground. you all have smiles on your faces like its going to be funny shit when you post it on the internet...i have looked for this many times at the rock maze and can never find it. although it may be because im looking for a thirty foot boulder...
By DanD
Nov 12, 2007

LIttle Monster has recently been repeated. The recent ascentionist suggested a significant downgrade. Her opinion? V2. I'm not sure how this happened...
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 12, 2007

Its clearly a height dependent problem Dan.
By DanD
Nov 15, 2007

I heard there was sticky rubber on them moccasins, though. True? Not exactly "old school" if you ask me. Still, RFH... I can't believe it got downgraded! ARgh!
By Joshua Dreher
From: Bremerton, WA
Jul 18, 2008

Epic!!! 6 months of work with naked dudes keeping me warm. Props to Dan Dewell on the FA. From what I hear he went back there with Daniel Woods and Woods was stumped. From there DD preceded to no handedly campus the problem! Daniel was impressed
By DanD
Aug 5, 2008

We all know who you are, Byron J. Hastings...
By Jon Marek
From: SLC
Apr 14, 2010

Is it considered bad form to reherse the moves on top-rope? I really want to work this thing but I just can't work up the cahones to take the fall if I blow the top-out crux.
By joel douglas
From: Denver CO
Jul 27, 2010

Dan,
they let you on this website! even after your diligent work commenting on every poor climber who ever posted photos 0 friction! we are in for a treat.