|One Of These Days Buttress
Essentially, a face climb with a smidgen of placement opportunities mixed in. You will find technical climbing between seams, knobs, and the occasional finger jam. Fancy feet and iron fingers will see you through this gem. It heads straight up to the anchors shared with Bush League.
Just right of Bush League and a few climbs right of One of These Days
Thin, intermittent pro. Honestly, being a mere mortal, I only toproped it. An onsight lead would be spicy, to say the least.
Aug 5, 2011
The moves on this are all there but the gear leaves something to be desired. If you like tinkering you way up a route with small nuts and thin cams than this is a good lead otherwise TR it.
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Jun 24, 2013
The two I watched climb it yesterday seemed to have no problem finding gear that they felt comfortable climbing above and falling on. It was thin, but in their words, totally bomber. If this is you climbing ping me for the originals.
| || lmm1 |
| || Little Miss Manners |
From: Vacaville Ca.
Nov 9, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
I lead it clean, onsight a couple years ago. The lower third of the route you need to be careful, but after that it's pretty strait forward gear wise. You just have to look for the small nut placements and be willing to climb above them. Thought it was a little spicy, but certainly not an X route, or even really an R.
And yeah you have to be solid .12a/b climber. It's a thin 5.11++ with fiddly small gear. It's not some down stream weenie roast clip up.