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 ADVANCED
Venus Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Constipation Prize 
Dirtigo 
Little Mermaid 
Mercury 
Mountaineer's Crack 
Mowgli Grape 
Neptune 
Preppy's Crack 
Shame on a Chippa 
Venus Envy 
Venus on a Halfshell 
Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The 

Little Mermaid 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Justin Hayes
Season: Sunny days in the winter and shaddy ones in the summer.
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Emile Mennin on May 9, 2011
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Description 

If you've sent Venus and aren't quite ready for Neptune, try this crimpy and pumpy link up. First done by Justin Hayes this is an endurance route.


Location 

The Route climbs the first 4 bolts of Venus on a Halfshell, then traverses right and finishes on Shame on a Chippa (the Neptune finish too).


Protection 

Quick-draws, usually fixed.



Comments on Little Mermaid Add Comment
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 9, 2011

According to the old Rumney guide, this linkup is called "Little Mermaid", and is given 12d.

There is also "Secret Agent" (13a/b) that starts on Shame on a Chippa and finishes on Mercury.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 9, 2011

Great, now we have 2 "Little Mermaids" and 2 "Cold Shoulders" at Rumney. How about something prosaic like "Hayes Linkup"?

I still wish Ward had left "Smoke Stack" at the New Wave as "Cold Shoulder" and just mentioned that Tim called it Cold Shoulder when he first did it as a trad route, to avoid confusion. It's the more often used name anyway.