Little Mecca 

I climbed this yesterday, and the first bolt was very loose. The nut was just finger-tight, and the bolt itself was loose enough to be able to wiggle it sideways in the hole...not very much, but still a lot more than I would have liked. A wrench may be enough to fix it, but none of my group had one handy.

I would inspect the first bolt before you trust it, and if in doubt, just stick-clip the 2nd bolt. The 2nd clip is very easy once you've pulled over the low crux, so clipping it from the ground doesn't really take away from the climb at all.

I hated the contrived start (especially since it seemed so f---ing hard) but loved the thin, technical finish. More "b" than "a" in my book!

Holds broke on the original straight-up start but it still goes. Better than the cheat out left

Actually there's a pretty good rest between the fourth and fifth bold (or is it 3rd & 4th?) before the crux sequence. Seems like there are multiple versions of the start. I started just below the first bolt (aka on the left), grabbed the mail slot below the bolt, then moved right. Double clutch off the left hand gaston to a good small hold above, then its pretty reasonable. Crux moves are thin -- think feet, and there's still a sting in the tail at the end. Enjoyable!

Of the dozen or so routes I've done in Sand Gulch, this is my favorite. I was told that there haven't been any broken holds, but there used to be a large block you could stand on to reach the mailslot at the start.Pretty spooky finish.

This is my favorite route in Sand Gulch.

This is the finest route I have done at Shelf so far (50 or so routes). This climb has it all. Begin with an engaging boulder problem right off the ground. Big moves on positive pockets lead to the arete. Delicate and technical moves finish it off. The finish will blow your mind- and maybe your onsight.

So, just wondering if it would still count as send if pre-hung draws, including anchors, and clip anchors from the last good crimp and reach way up. In this case, one doesn't really move out left and back to anchors. I am asking this because if I pre-hang draws, I can clip the anchors, but without them, it would be 3 extra hard/scary moves and I wouldn't be able to clip the anchors from the last crimp.

Kai, What you did was a pinkpoint instead of a redpoint, but still a send. Congrats!

Thanks. Right, that would be a pink point. However, I am just curious whether to call it a send/pink point or not if I can't make that traverse move to be able to clip draws at anchors. My buddy sent it that way, and I have worked out the beta and it will go next time.

Got on this yesterday, blew my last attempt while trying to clip the anchors. Make sure to use that rest before the 2nd last draw or you may suffer the same fate! You can hang the draws by climbing Cactus Drop (10d) beside it.