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Contest Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Little Mecca 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Richard Aschert, Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth
Page Views: 2,021
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Fred on Little Mecca 12a/b, Shelf Road, CO. Photo...

Description 

This is another nice climb about 1/2 way along Contest Wall, just left of Cactus Drop, Regroovable and Lime and Punishment. Start up the initial bulge with a powerful sequence past the first bolt to thin pocket and edge climbing up the blunt arete. A slightly hidden heuco near the third bolt provides a rest, otherwise the climbing is continous to the anchors.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Little Mecca Slideshow Add Photo
Kai Huang on Little Mecca 12a/b Shelf Road, CO.  Photo by Phill Tearse.
Kai Huang on Little Mecca 12a/b Shelf Road, CO. P...
BETA PHOTO
Chauncey red pointing Little Mecca.
Chauncey red pointing Little Mecca.
Matt Findley on Little Mecca mid-way.
Matt Findley on Little Mecca mid-way.
Kai on Little Mecca 12a/b, Shelf Road, CO. Photo by Phill Tearse.
Kai on Little Mecca 12a/b, Shelf Road, CO. Photo b...
Matt McKee "HipHop" on Little Mecca 12a/b, Shelf Road, CO.  Photo by Phill Tearse.
Matt McKee "HipHop" on Little Mecca 12a/b, Shelf R...
Alex in his own Little Mecca.
Alex in his own Little Mecca.

Comments on Little Mecca Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 31, 2013
By Mark Eller
Nov 6, 2001

I hated the contrived start (especially since it seemed so f---ing hard) but loved the thin, technical finish. More "b" than "a" in my book!
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 6, 2001

Holds broke on the original straight-up start but it still goes. Better than the cheat out left
By David Benson
May 5, 2003

Actually there's a pretty good rest between the fourth and fifth bold (or is it 3rd & 4th?) before the crux sequence. Seems like there are multiple versions of the start. I started just below the first bolt (aka on the left), grabbed the mail slot below the bolt, then moved right. Double clutch off the left hand gaston to a good small hold above, then its pretty reasonable. Crux moves are thin -- think feet, and there's still a sting in the tail at the end. Enjoyable!
By Joe Collins
Jun 1, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Of the dozen or so routes I've done in Sand Gulch, this is my favorite. I was told that there haven't been any broken holds, but there used to be a large block you could stand on to reach the mailslot at the start.Pretty spooky finish.
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Sep 8, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

This is my favorite route in Sand Gulch.
By jhump
Mar 4, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

This is the finest route I have done at Shelf so far (50 or so routes). This climb has it all. Begin with an engaging boulder problem right off the ground. Big moves on positive pockets lead to the arete. Delicate and technical moves finish it off. The finish will blow your mind- and maybe your onsight.
By Kai Huang
From: Thornton, CO
Apr 26, 2009

So, just wondering if it would still count as send if pre-hung draws, including anchors, and clip anchors from the last good crimp and reach way up. In this case, one doesn't really move out left and back to anchors. I am asking this because if I pre-hang draws, I can clip the anchors, but without them, it would be 3 extra hard/scary moves and I wouldn't be able to clip the anchors from the last crimp.
By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Apr 27, 2009

Kai, What you did was a pinkpoint instead of a redpoint, but still a send. Congrats!
By Kai Huang
From: Thornton, CO
Apr 27, 2009

Thanks. Right, that would be a pink point. However, I am just curious whether to call it a send/pink point or not if I can't make that traverse move to be able to clip draws at anchors. My buddy sent it that way, and I have worked out the beta and it will go next time.
By Ian Stewart
Apr 15, 2013

Got on this yesterday, blew my last attempt while trying to clip the anchors. Make sure to use that rest before the 2nd last draw or you may suffer the same fate! You can hang the draws by climbing Cactus Drop (10d) beside it.
By slim
Administrator
Oct 31, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Superb route. Fun boulder problem at the start can be done a bunch of ways, just have to figure out the best way for the individual. The climbing above that is kind of tough - tricky feet. Top section is pretty intense. This would be a proud onsight, as you can't really see what's coming at you during some of the harder climbing.