Little Matterhorn Rock Climbing
Little Matterhorn from above Odessa Lake.
The Little Matterhorn is the impressive chunk of rock jutting from the far end of the eastern ridge of Knobtop Mountain. Its eastern flanks are strewn with large cliff bands, while its west ridge holds a nice 4th class scramble to the summit. It seems there is much exploring to be done on this peak, with only a couple of established routes to the summit...one being the west ridge and another documented in Gillett's High Peaks guide of the Northeast Face Direct (II, 5.7). A large cliff band below the east face harbors some impressive lines as well. If anyone else knows of other routes that have been established on this peak, please feel free to add them.
There are three ways to approach the Little Matterhorn, the first two of which start at Bear Lake.
The first (and shortest mileage) approach begins on the Odessa Lake trail. Hike 3 miles to Lake Helene, then branch off left onto the trail that circles the lake. Approximately 100 yards after crossing Lake Helene's outlet stream, look for an old trail (cairn) heading northwest (right) into Odessa Gorge. Follow many switchbacks down to a long meadow on the valley floor, cross the meadow and bust straight up the hillside, trending right higher up and aiming for the left side of a tree-covered ramp that contours right below Little Matterhorn's summit cliffs. This ramp can be followed all the way to the base of the north face if desired, but there are bouts of heavy petting and bushwacking. Don't go too high initially or you will get cliffed out.
A second approach takes the Odessa Lake trail from Bear Lake approximately 3.5 miles to Odessa Lake. Circle the lake's north shore, then find a faint trail that heads up into Tourmaline Gorge, staying climber's right of the inlet stream. Follow cairns up a small gully and onto a bench that can be easily followed to the base of the north face.
The third approach simply starts at Fern Lake Trailhead. 4.2 miles on trail brings you to Odessa Lake.
Weather station 5.3 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Little Matterhorn
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Little Matterhorn:
Featured Route For Little Matterhorn
North Pillar Left 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
: Alpine Rock
: ... : Little Matterhorn
Begin in a prominent gully that splits the left side of the north face. Scramble up the gully until it turns to 5th class. Step right on to a grassy ledge with a nice crack for an anchor.Pitch 1: (5.7, 140 feet) zig-zag up the face above, trending slightly to the right. Traverse right under a roof, then head straight up a left facing corner to find another nice belay ledge with a splitter hand crack for an anchor. Pitch 2: (5.7 R, 140 feet) jam the nice hand crack straight off the belay for 40 f...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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Little Matterhorn from the pass near Lake Helene. ...