The Little Matterhorn is the impressive chunk of rock jutting from the far end of the eastern ridge of Knobtop Mountain. Its eastern flanks are strewn with large cliff bands, while its west ridge holds a nice 4th class scramble to the summit. It seems there is much exploring to be done on this peak, with only a couple of established routes to the summit...one being the west ridge and another documented in Gillett's High Peaks guide of the Northeast Face Direct (II, 5.7). A large cliff band below the east face harbors some impressive lines as well. If anyone else knows of other routes that have been established on this peak, please feel free to add them.
There are three ways to approach the Little Matterhorn, the first two of which start at Bear Lake.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Little Matterhorn:
Southeast Face 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 600 feet
North Pillar Left 5.8 R Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II
Featured Route For Little Matterhorn
Southeast Face 5.5 CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Little Matterhorn
This route is summarily described in Gerry Roach's guide to RMNP. A buttress descends in the southeast direction from the summit of Little Matterhorn. (That is from the high point at the far end of the ridge.) The route climbs easy slabs to the left of a large overhang that cuts across the base of that buttress. The slabs are about two pitches. (We didn't rope up for this section.)At the top of the slabs, move right to the base of the upper section of the buttress. From there, it's about 70...[more] Browse More Classics in CO