Little Maniac/Dead End Crack  5.10 R

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Type:  Trad, TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Eric Breitenberger (TR) Dan Jaffe (Lead) Submitted By:  Kentner on Sep 11, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Follows the crack up the left side of the photo. T...

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Description 

This is THE crack of the Tors. The crack varies from hands to fingers before tapering out to 5.9 run-out at the top. A fixed pin at the top of the crack was pulled out with a gentle tug this summer. A couple bolts a the top of this climb would make the lead considerably safer.

To top rope the climb, go around to the south side of the rock and follow a ramp to a grassy ledge. From the grass head towards the wide gap (chimney) that leads to the top. The moves are a bit committing here and I have to agree with the guide book that a belay makes the outing more pleasant. Being tall helps, too.

Location 

East side of Asgard Tor, north end. Obvious, clean, beautiful crack.

Protection 

Cams and nuts to 2" with 3 bolted anchors at top

Photos of Little Maniac/Dead End Crack Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Perfect hands? Bottom half of Little Maniac. Photo...