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 ADVANCED
Asgard Tor
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Asgard Dihedral T 
Green Wall TR 
Little Maniac/Dead End Crack T,TR 

Little Maniac/Dead End Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eric Breitenberger (TR) Dan Jaffe (Lead)
Page Views: 692
Submitted By: Kentner on Sep 11, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Follows the crack up the left side of the photo. T...

Description 

This is THE crack of the Tors. The crack varies from hands to fingers before tapering out to 5.9 run-out at the top. A fixed pin at the top of the crack was pulled out with a gentle tug this summer. A couple bolts a the top of this climb would make the lead considerably safer.

To top rope the climb, go around to the south side of the rock and follow a ramp to a grassy ledge. From the grass head towards the wide gap (chimney) that leads to the top. The moves are a bit committing here and I have to agree with the guide book that a belay makes the outing more pleasant. Being tall helps, too.


Location 

East side of Asgard Tor, north end. Obvious, clean, beautiful crack.


Protection 

Cams and nuts to 2" with 3 bolted anchors at top



Photos of Little Maniac/Dead End Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Perfect hands? Bottom half of Little Maniac. Photo: C. Rowell
BETA PHOTO: Perfect hands? Bottom half of Little Maniac. Photo...
Comments on Little Maniac/Dead End Crack Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
Jun 10, 2013

This is the BEST pitch in the Fairbanks area, period. Do it. I could run laps on this all day long. Tape is nice as the rock is quite sharp.

I disagree with the comment above about adding bolts to make it a safer lead - it has been led as is, and if one really wanted to lead the crack portion but was concerned with the upper runout, you could pre-hang a length of cord or rope from the bolted anchor to clip on lead, thus eliminating the need for a bolt.