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Little Joe

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Exsqueeze Me TR 
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Little Joe  

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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Anagnostou on Apr 27, 2006


61° | 49°

65° | 52°

79° | 57°

83° | 58°

84° | 59°
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Little Joe is basically a big boulder, nestled into the slopes beneath the Community Pillar wall. From the Pine Creek wash, it might not look too appealing, but there are several short (up to 70') fun routes on it that make it a neat excursion for the local who's done everything, or an extra pitch on the way down from Community Pillar et al.

There are three crack systems on it, a bolted face/arete, and some other face lines that might be worth toproping. The routes were first explored by Nick Nordblom, et al, sometime in the 80's, but route names and grades are unknown, so I've invented and guessed, respectively. Please comment if you have better beta.

The three trad cracks take hand-size cams to build anchors at the top.

There is a bolted climb which ascends the varnished face right of the southwest arete (looks like 5.12) and the rap anchor above that provides a friendly way to get off the formation. Be careful stepping down to the anchor.

You can ascend the east side of the footstool with ledgy scrambling and a couple easy fifth class moves on bad rock to gain the top of the formation and set up a toprope.

Getting There 

Little Joe is almost at the base of the Community Pillar wall. If you are contouring along the base of the wall, it is easier to access it from the right side (say, coming from Magic Triangle) than the left side (as if approaching from the start of Community Pillar). Or, you can take your favorite way into the left fork of Pine Creek (the braided trails to Cat in the Hat work) and then look for two stands of pine trees in the wash. The first stand is four trees, two dead. Just upstream are two more tall trees. The best path I've found yet starts near these two trees. It takes about an hour from the parking lot.

Climbing Season

For the Pine Creek Canyon area.

Weather station 3.5 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Little Joe
The Exsqueeze Me tight chimney. In the sun on the ...

Exsqueeze Me 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  NV : Red Rock : ... : Little Joe
Exsqueeze Me is a short squeeze chimney that would need big bros to protect. It starts with a few yards of scrambling easy broken rock to a clean varnished tight chimney with no pro until a large lodged chockstone near the top, where you can escape right or left around the detached boulder on top of the Footstool, or just pull over the top on face holds. There are numerous face features on the right side of the crack which make this smooth chimney a lot easier than it might appear. The face rock...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

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