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Little Gremlins
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.2 from 29 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Mike Engle and Linda Schneider 1987-ground up |
Page Views: | 979 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Rich F. on Jul 8, 2012 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
The first half of this route is "trad" going up two small finger/hand cracks (layback) stacked on each other (see photo). Above the top crack there are two bolts -- well placed, but far enough apart to give the route a little bit of a spice feel. Above the second bolt, one can also clip the anchors to the route on the right (Skid Marks, 5.10) as one more piece of protection before going the last 12 feet to the Gremlin anchors. I enjoyed the "mixed" feel of the route going from trad layback cracks to face climbing on crystals.
Location
Approach as for "Pointy Devil"
This route starts 20 feet right of "Going Down to Harlem" and about 50 feet left (uphill) of "Pointy Devil" on the same wall. There appears to be another sport route (Skid Marks, 5.10?) sandwiched between Little Gremlins and Pointy Devil. The Little Gremlins route is easily identified by the two stacked cracks shown in the photo.
This route starts 20 feet right of "Going Down to Harlem" and about 50 feet left (uphill) of "Pointy Devil" on the same wall. There appears to be another sport route (Skid Marks, 5.10?) sandwiched between Little Gremlins and Pointy Devil. The Little Gremlins route is easily identified by the two stacked cracks shown in the photo.
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