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Little Gotham Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Little Gotham

	If the cops come hide the camera T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
	Victimless Criminal TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Elevation:	647 ft
GPS:	35.31797, -120.62174 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,962 total · 30/month
Shared By:	Serial Crusher on Aug 15, 2013
Admins:	andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Be Respectful Details

This cliff is on Cal-Trans property, so access is limited to California Highway Patrol discretion. Be respectful of their wishes if they ask that you not climb here.

Description

A manmade retainaing wall of plated concrete. Certainly not worth a trip on its own for anyone traveling through town, but it does offer some unique features and a chance to mix it up a bit and still do some climbing.

Every single crack on the wall can be protected with cams no bigger than .75", except for one crack that is short and 5.6. It can take up to a #3, but its not worth doing.

Bring a runner to clip into the reinforcement rails up top to TR or to rap off and clean your gear. Use your imagination.

The crux of all routes is at the very top.

The cracks range from easy to easy 5.6-5.9, but doing purely face climbing can bump it to mid .10s-.11s real quick.

Have fun.

Getting There

On the 101 North from San Luis Obispo, turn left onto lower Stagecoach Road. Its the turn before you start gaining any major elevation. The wall is 50 feet in from the freeway and on the right.