No real crux moves, pretty straight forward slab/crack climbing. Bring some snacks and beverages to hang out at the base when you're all done - makes a great spot for dinner and a swim, just make sure to pack it out.
Start at the lowest point of the cliff scramble up right 20' above the water - follow the crack system...
standard trad rack - don't recall any fixed gear. People generally say the route goes between 5.5 and 5.7, so I've rated it 5.6 - I don't recall thinking it was difficult at all, except that my toes were hurting something fierce when I was done...
|Comments on Little Finger
Jun 29, 2009
5.6 it's not. The guidebook rates it at 5.5, and except for a short crux section at the beginning of P3, most of the climbing is much easier than that. Gear is good for most of the route, though there is some pretty hollow rock on P2 and the beginning of P3. Definitely gets hot- lots of sun! Position above the lake is spectacular- one of my favorite climbs for the views alone!
Aug 21, 2009
Two ropes make the rap much easier. With one rope you'll be tunneling into the woods to find the next slung tree.
|By Eli Kramer|
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Sep 14, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Agreed, two ropes if you can. There is a fixed anchor (two pitons) at the end of the first pitch. I didn't use any gear bigger than a .75 Camalot, though you could probably place a #1.
|By al piner|
Oct 24, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13
Fun climb with adventurous approach .We took canoes and ended up in 50 degree Lake George when we fell out going ashore to the rocks .Tip: I put my life jacket on my pack because I can swim and it cannot . It worked , no diving for the rack ! A windy rainy October morning but the sun came out and we were semi dry by pitch two .
Pitch one was wet and slippery due to morning rain but was still within its 5.5 rating . Off the third pitch anchors we made it down on two double rope rappels with 60M ropes.The crux was paddling back for a half hour into a 20 mph headwind !
Jun 14, 2010
Very fun route. As the book says, there is a real danger of burning the feet of your soles - I did mine! If you don't feel like paddling, you can hitch a ride on a motorboat from Hague Marina. Tourists love it!
Oct 12, 2010
Did the route for the 3rd time this past weekend, this time leading the Direct Finish on the 3rd pitch. Guidebook calls it 5.7+, which feels about right. Protects well with small-medium nuts and cams. A beautiful clean line, straight up the crack to bolt anchors. Spices up an otherwise very easy route. Highly recommended.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Jun 20, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Can't stress enough how much small gear this route will eat up. P1 is a long pitch and while you can (and I did) run it out a bit, by the book G pro placements will likely mean depleting much of your rack. P1 nothing bigger than a #1, but did use a #3 to protect the start of P2, a #1 as a first piece in the crack below the small roof/bulge at the top of the belay for P2, and a #2 on P3. You might be able to climb through these sections to different (smaller) gear, but I felt pretty locked in and the spots I chose seemed 'right'.
Also can't stress how awesome this climb is. Also did the first two pitches on a neighboring Screaming Meaney (5.7 pitches) with awesome moves on the second pitch. All the climbing we did ranked better than Chapel Pond slab, which is to say just how spectacular this location is. 5 star climbing by any measure.
Beware that early season (like my second trip yesterday revealed) means a lot of debris from budding trees in the crack. Spent a lot of time cleaning holds and the crack when placing gear.