Pitch 1: Slabby 5.7 with 4 bolts up to an anchor.
Pitch 2: 5.8-, head up the loose flake then up the slab to meet with Little Finger.
Pitches 3-4: Final pitches of Little Finger
Start to the right of Little Finger (about 30 feet).
draws & trad gear
|By tom rosecrans|
Jul 1, 2011
The route described here is the Bill Route, p-1. Little Finger Direct actually climbed the face about 10' rt of Little Finger, unprotected except for a poor upside down pin at about half height, belaying in the left facing corner just rt. of LF. Here the idea of a totally separate line failed and it was back to LF to just below the roof with P-3 taking the classic finger crack above.
|By Jaysen Henderson|
From: White Plains, New York
Aug 5, 2011
lots of fun, after you pull the roof you get all these really cool discontinuous finger locks, there was a small crack i belayed from but im pretty sure i could've made it to the bolt anchors.
Jul 10, 2012
At the risk of sounding like an old fart, there didn't used to be any bolt anchor atop P3 and a belay on gear above the steepest part of the pitch was required or else you wouldn't reach the trees. Best view on the whole slab from that belay!
Anyone climbing in the vicinity of Little Finger would do well to take a good hard look at the black streak that is the original P1 of LF Direct. Tom is maybe a bit too modest in his comment above; the fact is that those guys climbed a full ropelength of unprotected, unknown slab. Basically it was a free solo. The comment in the current guidebook is spot on: (paraphrasing) "If you want to experience it the way it used to be, climb this pitch". But the reality is that with the less-than-lethal options of Bill's Route and Two Bits so close by, 99% of today's climbers will not lead LFD's first pitch. Same idea with linking Meaney and Matrix, to avoid the former's 100 ft runout on the top pitch. Linkups are simply the best way to enjoy the fine climbing that RR has to offer.