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Little Finger aka Penis Rock Area
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Little Finger aka Penis Rock - South Face S 
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Little Finger aka Penis Rock - South Face 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Lowe & Paul Hogan, 1972.
Page Views: 2,783
Submitted By: John Peterson on Apr 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Description 

The obvious 4 bolt line on the rock. A summit that every Gunny climber must attain.

Location 

The most obvious route at Hartman's.

Protection 

Bolts.


Photos of Little Finger aka Penis Rock - South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Gunnison Pinnacle.
Gunnison Pinnacle.
Looking down toward Gunny
Looking down toward Gunny
The Ant atop the mighty phallus
The Ant atop the mighty phallus
The 5.10d sport route on the south face.
The 5.10d sport route on the south face.
Early ascent by Tom Pulaski and Jimmy Newberry (1976)  Notice Tom's new Kletter shoes and Jimmy's green edging Chouinards!
Early ascent by Tom Pulaski and Jimmy Newberry (19...

Comments on Little Finger aka Penis Rock - South Face Add Comment
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By phil broscovak
May 4, 2007

FOUR bolts! 4 BOLTS? What the ph-uck do you mean FOUR BOLTS?
I know its been since the last century that I was there but I do not recall that many BOLTS. What gives Local ethics or my memory?
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
May 4, 2007

Phil,
There were always four bolts on it. Hangerless as I recall, but four of them for sure. I climbed it it several times in the early eighties. I seem to remember Jimmy D. put it up (?).
By phil broscovak
May 16, 2007

Thanx Allen for jogging my memory. They were just studs back then weren't they.
By Jello
Jun 11, 2007

Paul Hogan and I made the first ascent of this rock back in 1972. Paul was a student at Western State and I worked for Outward Bound in Lake City. Paul told me about this cool pinnacle that Harvey Carter had drilled a fixed angle on, but aparently hadn't finished the route. I led the pitch free with only the old drilled army angle for protection. Several decades later I went back to climb it and found those "new" bolts. It was a cool little climb before, well protected for the crux but a little run-out afterward, adding up to a micro-classic. Now it's just another sport climb.

By the way, I called the tower the Little Finger.

-Jeff Lowe
By phil broscovak
Jun 11, 2007

Jello, I was a WSC student from 1975 on and it was our common knowledge that you first climbed this tower which we always called the Lowe Pinnacle. I wrongly thought that you had done it with Mike Weiss so it is good to set the record straight. I had NO idea you led it with only a single drilled anchor for pro. BRRRRurly! Thinking about that made my privates turtle up. Cheers to you and all the wild, wild stuff you climbed including this little tower.
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jul 27, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

On the black and white shots I just submitted, those who know Jimmy Newberry can see that he is muttering "Desperate!!!", hence the direct aid.
By phil broscovak
May 13, 2009

YDPL8S, I noticed you rated this a mere 10a. You hardman you!
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
May 14, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Honestly, I'm such a neophyte at this new fangled rating thing that anything over 5.10 is/was basically 5.impossible for me.

It was definitely an adrenaline dyno move for me. In fact, if you read Bob Dickerson's account in Gunnison Rock of the most bogus rappel he ever did, a double rap off the top of this thing, with one person rapping off each side simultaneously, with no pro but rope friction....that was me in that most dubious adventure!
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 30, 2010

Was there last week. It still holds up. Excuse the pun please.