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Little Eiger area - ice

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Coors Light Exit Crack T 
Coors Lite T 
Mickey's Big Mouth T 
Red Stripe 

Little Eiger area - ice  


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Elevation: 5,500'
Page Views: 25,558
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Quinn Stevens on Mar 19, 2006
Forecast:
Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
Chance of a Thunderstorm
63° | 43°
Partly Cloudy
60° | 42°
Partly Cloudy
67° | 45°
Clear
71° | 43°
Clear
69° | 43°
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BETA PHOTO: Overall conditions as of 1/13/07.

Description 

Excerpted from MP.com submission by Quinn

Clear Creek Canyon (CCC) is aptly situated along Clear Creek, just west of Golden.

Several sites along US 6 in Clear Creek Canyon between Golden and Black Hawk produce surprisingly fun ice climbs in a casual setting. Some of the climbs in the upper canyon form consistently every year, while others at lower elevations form up less frequently. All the climbs except for those in the Aqueduct area are formed by natural drainages that feed Clear Creek. All climbs are on the left side of the road, on the opposite side of the creek on the northern aspect where they are shaded from the sun most of the day. Therefore, the ice tends to be clear water ice.

The easy access of these climbs from the road and their proximity to the Denver Area, make these climbs some of the most popular and crowded climbs on the Front Range. Be patient and considerate of other parties on the ice. Wear your helmet, belay out of the way of the path of icefall, call your falling ice, and always be aware of other parties. All of the climbs in Clear Creek Canyon are capable of being toproped, but also make for exciting beginner leads. Even if you arrive first, donít hog the ice with grid topropes that you arenít climbing on. Allow others to solo or lead past when you are not occupying your lines. These climbs are an incredible resource that we all can share.

Getting There 

From Denver, find your way onto 6th Ave or US 6 and go to Golden and the intersection with Hwy 93.

From Boulder, take Hwy 93 (Broadway) straight S into Golden.

Then take a W on US 6 into Clear Creek Canyon into the canyon. Little Eiger is about 3 1/2 miles upstream from Tunnel 1. It is just S of the first bridge uphill from Tunnel 1. If you get to Tunnel 2, you've gone too far.

Pullouts can be found along the highway, and most approaches are about 1-5 minutes.

Location 

Per Brian Tessier: From the intersection of US 6/6th Ave, CO 58 and CO Highway 93 in Golden. Head west on US 6 towards Central City and Blackhawk...
Beer Gardens on left at 2.8 miles.
Coors Lite on left at 3.8 miles. Coors Light Exit Crack is a var of P2.
In between is the modest-sized cliff known as Little Eiger.
Mickey's Bigmouth on left at 4.3 miles. Red Stripe is a variation of P1.
(+/- on the mileage)

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.5 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Little Eiger area - ice:
Coors Lite   WI2-3     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Classics in Little Eiger area - ice

Featured Route For Little Eiger area - ice
Derek on his mixed creation of the day.

Coors Light Exit Crack WI3- M3-4  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Little Eiger area - ice
This is a nice short mixed variation on the far left side of the "second pitch" of Coors Light. Usually there is a short ice pillar on the left side of this second pitch ice curtain. Climb this short pillar (WI3-), climb over a small overhanging ledge (M4+), and then climb left up to a chimney to exit (M2)....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Little Eiger area - ice Slideshow Add Photo
XX= 2 bolts w/ chain <br />P= Pins. <br />Pic. 12-06.
BETA PHOTO: XX= 2 bolts w/ chain
P= Pins.
Pic. 12-06.

Comments on Little Eiger area - ice Add Comment
Show which comments
By Doug Redosh
Feb 8, 2008
Could someone who knows the area add a clear description of the LOCATION of these lines?
By Brian Tessier
From: Lakehood, Colorado
Feb 8, 2008
From the intersection of US 6/6th Ave, CO 58 and CO Highway 93 in Golden.
Head west on US 6 towards Central City and Blackhawk.
Aqueduct flows on left before tunnel #1
Beer Gardens on left at 2.8 miles
Coors Lite on left at 3.8 miles
Mickey's Bigmouth on left at 4.3 miles
(+/- on the mileage)
By Mark McConnell
Jan 7, 2009
Where'd the pipe go?

I finally got up there tonight to see what was going on and noticed that the farmed ice was gone... anyone know why? I suspect the pipe helped the rest of the flow to form so large in the past few years.
By B.James
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 25, 2012
LEFT GEAR 2/24:
Hi, I left a few slings and a locking BD biner at the second (or third) belay up on the Little Eiger flows today. Epic weather forced an epic bailout, and all had to be left behind.

PM me please if anyone by chance picks them up!!