Little Eiger area - ice Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Overall conditions as of 1/13/07.
Excerpted from MP.com submission by Quinn
Clear Creek Canyon (CCC) is aptly situated along Clear Creek, just west of Golden.
Several sites along US 6 in Clear Creek Canyon between Golden and Black Hawk produce surprisingly fun ice climbs in a casual setting. Some of the climbs in the upper canyon form consistently every year, while others at lower elevations form up less frequently. All the climbs except for those in the Aqueduct area are formed by natural drainages that feed Clear Creek. All climbs are on the left side of the road, on the opposite side of the creek on the northern aspect where they are shaded from the sun most of the day. Therefore, the ice tends to be clear water ice.
The easy access of these climbs from the road and their proximity to the Denver Area, make these climbs some of the most popular and crowded climbs on the Front Range. Be patient and considerate of other parties on the ice. Wear your helmet, belay out of the way of the path of icefall, call your falling ice, and always be aware of other parties. All of the climbs in Clear Creek Canyon are capable of being toproped, but also make for exciting beginner leads. Even if you arrive first, dont hog the ice with grid topropes that you arent climbing on. Allow others to solo or lead past when you are not occupying your lines. These climbs are an incredible resource that we all can share.
From Denver, find your way onto 6th Ave or US 6 and go to Golden and the intersection with Hwy 93.
From Boulder, take Hwy 93 (Broadway) straight S into Golden.
Then take a W on US 6 into Clear Creek Canyon into the canyon. Little Eiger is about 3 1/2 miles upstream from Tunnel 1. It is just S of the first bridge uphill from Tunnel 1. If you get to Tunnel 2, you've gone too far.
Pullouts can be found along the highway, and most approaches are about 1-5 minutes.
Weather station 5.5 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Little Eiger area - ice
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Little Eiger area - ice
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Little Eiger area - ice:
Featured Route For Little Eiger area - ice
Mickey's Big Mouth
: CO Ice & Mixed
: ... : Little Eiger area - ice
This climb forms a 1st pitch 30 feet, broad 70-90 degree flow with several variations. The right hand side holds thick ice interrupted by a small ledge or two for placing gear. The left hand side sports a thin section of nearly vertical ice. Some mixed climbing can be had on the cliff to the extreme left hand side of the flow.There is a second pitch above which often forms a fun WI2+, 60', pitch. It had a bush rappel which was improved to a 2 bolt rap.Descent: Scramble down rocks to the right o...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: XX= 2 bolts w/ chain P= Pins. Pic. 12-06.
By Doug Redosh
Feb 8, 2008
Could someone who knows the area add a clear description of the LOCATION of these lines?
By Brian Tessier
From: Lakehood, Colorado
Feb 8, 2008
From the intersection of US 6/6th Ave, CO 58 and CO Highway 93 in Golden.
Head west on US 6 towards Central City and Blackhawk.
Aqueduct flows on left before tunnel #1
Beer Gardens on left at 2.8 miles
Coors Lite on left at 3.8 miles
Mickey's Bigmouth on left at 4.3 miles
(+/- on the mileage)
By Mark McConnell
Jan 7, 2009
Where'd the pipe go?
I finally got up there tonight to see what was going on and noticed that the farmed ice was gone... anyone know why? I suspect the pipe helped the rest of the flow to form so large in the past few years.
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 25, 2012
LEFT GEAR 2/24:
Hi, I left a few slings and a locking BD biner at the second (or third) belay up on the Little Eiger flows today. Epic weather forced an epic bailout, and all had to be left behind.
PM me please if anyone by chance picks them up!!
By Joe Martinet
Dec 18, 2015
Not a bad little area. It is little but always worth a once a season visit especially during the early season and with a newbie. Today it was in decent form. Nothing amazing but worth an Friday afternoon. If you go, please be gentle, so it stays and grows more.