Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Dogwood Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Modest Man from Mandrake S 
Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco T 
Cross-Eyed and Painless S 
Drunken Crack T,TR 
Haven't A Clue S,TR 
Hyper-Gamma Spaces T,TR 
I Think I'm Going Bald S,TR 
Life During Wartime T,TR 
Lion of Zion, The T 
Little Creatures T 
Little Critters T 
Little Things S 
On the Skids S 
Quartzite and (No) Stainless T 
Slinga Tree T,TR 
Take Me To The River S,TR 
Unforgiven S,TR 
Unknown west of Mandrake S,TR 
Unknown west of Take Me to the River T,TR 

Little Critters 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,311
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 17, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Long, easy, and dirty. Probably not worth it unless you are looking for a reason to practice gear routes. I believe you will need to belay from the top for the second so 2-ways are nice to hear each other.


Will need gear for the anchors up top and for the entire climb. Maybe 1 piton already fixed. It's been a long time, and I can't recall.

Comments on Little Critters Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rebecca Airmet
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 31, 2006
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I don't believe there is a piton anywhere on this climb. However, it protects very well, and despite the vegetation in a few spots, it was not really that dirty. A good place to practice placing gear safely for a new trad leader, but you *must* feel confident about your anchor building skills, as you do need to build an anchor at the top. By face climbing to the right of the crack, the second can make this a bit harder, i.e., more fun.
By Mark Goodro
From: Puget Sound, Washington
May 15, 2009

There's a pin on the face about 15-20 feet up, well to the right of the crack that starts out of the cave. I find it's more fun to climb the face up past the pin and join the crack higher up. There are many very large and very loose rocks on the ledge before the final headwall.
By Rockwood
From: West Jordan
Apr 20, 2010

This was my first lead outside and if you've ever done any Big Cottonwood climbs, this is typical rock and a piece of a cake and a great practice for new leaders. Only one or two 5.6 moves. I went up above the bush and then did a semi runout traverse over and down to the chains on Little Creatures. It made heinous rope drag in the end but I didn't have to build an anchor and I could be lowered down. (What second wants to be belayed up on an anchor someone built on their first lead? Even if it was bomber, the mental confidence would still be lacking.) All said, I liked it.
By Wic
From: SLC, UT
Sep 5, 2015

This is such a fun climb! There is a hole in the top of this cave (where the chains are) that is so fun to climb through! Fun rap down if you top rope it. This climb is a must!

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!