|South Face Lower Buttress
|Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>|
By far, my FAVORITE route on the Buttress. I remember Carl telling me how much work it was bagging the first ascent. The route actually gets it's name for the pesky wasps that liked to hang out. For that reason, it might be a wise idea to rap the route first before you attempt the lead.
Start on a large, somewhat detached block climbing the large crack and face to it's top. Step left onto the main wall and work your way up to a small roof. A CLASSIC move will allow you to pull the roof and lead you up to a hands down rest. For me, the crux is negotiating the face back right to the corner. A two bolt anchor awaits.
Right and down the slope from Lakota about 100 feet. This route is sometimes confused with Little Fingers.
RP's, BD Stoppers and a set of BD Camalots to #4. LONG RUNNERS are a MUST!
May 26, 2014
Long pitch, I ran out of runners with 80' to go. Don't forget some small wires/rps. Good climbing, often big holds and lots of stances. Some lose rock. Anchor is 2 bolts reduced down to one smash link (never understood this practice, why have 2 bolts with only one link?) We left 2 junky biners, maybe they will be there for you or you may choose to leaves some.