This is another example of Boulder climbers (Ament in particular) mining every bit of rock for another route. If you're bored one day and want to try something new in the Canyon, make the annoying approach to this rock, which actually has some interesting features.
Park on the right side of the canyon (heading West) at about the 0.9mi mark. The approach starts after the bend in the road to the left. Find a indistinct trail on the left side of the road behind the guard rail. Head up the gully until you see the biggest rock around. This will be Little Crag.
Start in a thin crack then pull up and right onto the face to more difficult and tenuous face climbing on thin holds and shallow seams. Work up to a good rest, then stem and crimp to the finish. The climbing is insecure and protection is next to nothing. Leading this would be a bold headpoint....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
I have enjoyed my two visits to Little Crag. Leave the trad gear/draws at home. Not the easiest top rope to set up, but I seem to remember a couple of decent bolts above the west face. Balancy, tweaky face climbing. Bring long slings. The crack on the left side, north face, is fun and felt like 5.10- to me, beware of loose flakes, I can't recommend leading it. I recall the access to the top, further around to the left of the crack to be interesting, try the right side. To toprope the crack, a static rope anchored to the big tree would be a big plus. Good for early/late season afternoon sun, keep an eye for it when you're coming down the creek path. Call me crazy, but with the exception of Zolar Czakl and the fourth Elephant Buttress, but is this the quickest accesible 5.10 top roping in Boulder? IMHO, worthy of a visit.
To toprope the crack, you probably want to be able to anchor from a tree that is more or less than forty feet from the top of the climb...