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Little Cottonwood Canyon

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Albion Basin 
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Altered States Gully 
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Egg, The 
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Lonely Bashie Buttress 
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Memorial Day Buttress 
Pawn, The 
Pentapitch Area 
Perla's Ridge and Environs 
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Sail, The 
Scruffy Band 
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Swamp, The 
Tanners Gulch 
Team Serious Wall 
Thumb Area, The 
Triangle Wall 
Upper Burner Wall 
Waterfront, The 
Westwind Buttress 
Wheeler-Newsome Wall 

Little Cottonwood Canyon  

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Location: 40.5727, -111.777 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,954,774
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 2, 2001

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Best routes for YOU in this area
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Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaah, fall in LCC...


LCC offers primarily quartz monzonite (white granite, essentially) with a few areas of limestone.

Trad, sport, bouldering, and ice climbing are all well-represented here. Most of the climbs are on the sunnier, north side of the canyon, but shade may be found for those hot summer days. In addition, north-facing classic routes are found on the south side of the canyon (see especially Pentapitch Area and Coal Pit Buttress.

On the north side of the canyon, roughly from The Egg past the Gate Buttress, the rock is either owned by or the approaches to the tock cross land owned by the LDS Church. Be considerate when crossing/using these areas.

The Wasatch Resort about one mile up the canyon on the right (south) presents access problems to some of the crags on that side of the canyon as well.

Ice Climbing 

This is a well known area. The Falcon guide has numerous routes listed, but realistically only 2 that come in real thick (at least that I've seen in the last 7 years of my ice climbing experience). There are a lot of other thin routes throughout the canyon. The 2 main lines are Scruffy Band and the Great White Icicle. The GW Icicle has always got a crowd! Last year I went up there at 10 at night for a late night run up the ice thinking the route would be free. There were still 2 groups just starting up the trail. This wouldn't be too bad, but the route is somewhat narrow, so anyone climbing above you will knock ice on you. So if you're looking for a remote, backcountry experience, this is not the area. Both Scruffy and GW icicle have easy approaches (10-30min) and the routes are moderate in difficulty (WI 2-3). So if you want a close easy climb with a crowd, these are probably good places to climb.

Getting There 

From the I-215 beltway around Salt Lake, take the 6200 South exit at the southeast corner of the loop. Follow signs to the ski resorts and Big and Little Cottonwood canyon. Pass the left turn into BCC and continue on Wasatch Blvd (Route 210) for a few more miles. This road leads directly up into LCC. From the south, exit I-15 at 9000 South (Route 209). Head east as 209 becomes 9400 South and eventually hits Wasatch (210) at the mouth of LCC. Turn right and head up the canyon. (camping info#littlecottonwood)

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.1 miles from here

991 Total Routes

['4 Stars',72],['3 Stars',348],['2 Stars',367],['1 Star',169],['Bomb',10]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Little Cottonwood Canyon:
Schoolroom   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area
Crescent Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Crescent Crack Buttress
Beckey's Wall   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area
Satan's Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area
Pentapitch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   Pentapitch Area
Bushwhack Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area
After The Fall   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Green Adjective Gully
The Green Adjective   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Green Adjective Gully
The Coffin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Coffin Buttress
S-Direct   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, 7 pitches, 800'   The Thumb Area
Gordon's Hangover   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Green Adjective Gully
Sasquatch   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Pentapitch Area
Mexican Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Crescent Crack Buttress
Bongeater   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Bongeater Buttress
Stiffler's Mom   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 12 pitches, 1300'   Coal Pit Buttress
Equipment Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area
Trench Warfare   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, 60'   Allen's Ridge Area
White Lines   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area
Fallen Arches   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Green Adjective Gully
Heisenberg   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area
Browse More Classics in Little Cottonwood Canyon

Featured Route For Little Cottonwood Canyon
Perin high up on P1.

Shock Trauma 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Intensive Care Slab
Slab supreme.Starting on a left-trending shelf, angle up this and clip the first bolt. Slab up some thin moves to chickenheads and another bolt. Attain a very cool dike feature, that trends steeply right. Climb this dike clipping the remainder of the bolts until you have to step left off of the dike to get to the anchors. Very exciting moves off of the dike. Extremely fun moves up it.The second pitch (5.11b) moves right off the anchors and with some up/down movement will clip the two bolts aimi...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Little Cottonwood Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Clay Calhoon works a route at the edge of the Gree...
Clay Calhoon works a route at the edge of the Gree...
I love running into these guys. They're so inspiri...
I love running into these guys. They're so inspiri...
Heeey Goat!
Heeey Goat!
I love this place.
I love this place.
Shot taken from the south side on the Super Slab
Shot taken from the south side on the Super Slab
sun set
sun set
Hellgate Cliffs, LCC Photo: Garrett Bentley
Hellgate Cliffs, LCC Photo: Garrett Bentley
Just some of the scenery up this beautiful canyon....
Just some of the scenery up this beautiful canyon....
The Pres drilling on lead for First Ascent of AY O...
The Pres drilling on lead for First Ascent of AY O...
Bushwhack Crack, LCC
Bushwhack Crack, LCC
LCC Granite
LCC Granite
view from pentapitch!
view from pentapitch!
What its all about.  Good friends, good beer, and ...
What its all about. Good friends, good beer, and ...
Bottom of LCC.
BETA PHOTO: Bottom of LCC.
Looking up LCC from Maybird
Looking up LCC from Maybird
Looking up LCC from the top of Mexican Crack
Looking up LCC from the top of Mexican Crack
Mystery route between Humane Society Wall and Cont...
Mystery route between Humane Society Wall and Cont...
view of Cecret Lake & unknown formations (there ha...
view of Cecret Lake & unknown formations (there ha...
Valley View from Crescent Crack Buttress
Valley View from Crescent Crack Buttress
Leading the second pitch of the grooves.  The bolt...
Leading the second pitch of the grooves. The bolt...

Comments on Little Cottonwood Canyon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 5, 2015
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 28, 2001
Little Cottonwood is an infamous area with a rich history of great traditional climbs, bouldering, and superb backcountry skiing. The rock is a very solid granite variation and offers many excellent cam and nut placements. Most routes have bolted belays, a very nice luxury, and all offer amazing climbing in equally amazing settings. Boulering is definitely not to be over looked, the canyon contains numerous routes ranging from V0 to V13. There are many bouldering spots, so one can find solitude and most offer extremely short approaches. No matter what type of climbing you are looking to do, Little Cottonwood Canyon will offer some of the best routes in wonderful and surreal settings.
By Taylor Morgan
From: Draper, UT
Jan 11, 2011
Snowbird has proposed to build a roller coaster in Little Cottonwood Canyon, on the lower south face of Mt. Superior:


I strongly oppose Snowbird's plans to build a roller coaster on the lower south face of Mt. Superior, across from and over Little Cottonwood Canyon Road.

Snowbird claims the proposed site is not used by hikers or backcountry skiers. This is not accurate. The area is on the southwest face of Mt. Superior, directly adjacent its summer trailhead/winter access points. This area is one of the most popular and treasured mountaineering, hiking, and backcountry skiing areas in Utah.

Furthermore, Mt. Superior is among the most beautiful and photographed areas in Utah, and the West. In fact, the 1976 Denver Olympic Bid Committee used a photo of Mt. Superior on its official bid packet.

While the proposed roller coaster will not directly inhibit mountaineering, hiking, or skiing, it will significantly diminish these pursuits and will be an embarrassing eyesore in Little Cottonwood Canyon.

Utah residents and tourists visit our canyons to play in the mountains, not on amusement-park rides.

Please contact your member of the Salt Lake County Council to urge them to oppose Snowbird's plans.
By Anson Call
From: Provo, UT
Mar 30, 2013
BEWARE of TICKS! My wife and I were in the lower parts of the canyon today. A few hours after we left, she discovered a tick on the back of her neck, just above her hairline. CREEPY and DANGEROUS! Ticks can carry some pretty nasty diseases, like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. It's something most people don't even think about, but they can be a real hazard - especially in the spring. Every time you leave the canyon, be sure to check your skin and scalp for these nasty buggers!
By waltereo
Apr 12, 2013
Is there any snow left on the ground at Little CottonWood Canyon ?

I'd like to do some multipitches and wondering if i can descend safely without crampons or icepick from the summit .

I am planning to be in SLC between April 20 and May 4

By T Roper
Jan 7, 2014
just scanning the classics on the front page and notice that All chalk as well as trench warfare are not listed, in fact no 12s are. kind of strange since people travel great distances to do these routes.
By Dave Burny
From: buffalo, ny
Feb 8, 2014
looking for a partner...hey guys, gonna be in Utah next week, looking for a parnter(s)...I am bringing all but rope and screws...email tripleaderdave@gmail.com or call 716-400-2436 if you are upto the call of duty...
pura vida,
By shanejcollins
From: Washington
Mar 19, 2014
Hey, can anyone tell me how good cell service is at LCC? it looks crazy close to the city.
By zoso
Mar 19, 2014
Depends on the carrier of course, but generally LCC is more cell friendly than BCC as it is a glacial canyon and therefore generally straighter. Certainly there are places where a signal is hard to find, but it's usually not too far of a walk to get one.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Mar 20, 2014
BCC has been outfitted with cell relays (?) last year, I have yet to find a crag where I can't InstaBook spray about how much of a choss slayer I am. LCC is more hit or miss for me, line of sight to the valley usually works.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
May 18, 2015
Who's stumping all those trees around crescent parking and further up? Lots of survey ribbon tied on trees and swaths cut through the oak brush.

Anybody know what is going down?
By zoso
May 18, 2015
Hmmm interesting. You should call the Forest Service about it.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
May 19, 2015
Pretty sure it's the USFS -> facebook.com/SaltLakeClimbers/...
By d-know
From: electric lady land
May 20, 2015
Thanks for the info, bozo.

Greg G comes thru with the goods.
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Jul 17, 2015
Salt Lake Craggin' Classic 2015
Salt Lake Craggin' Classic 2015

Join the American Alpine Club, Salt Lake Climbers Alliance, C.A.M.P. USA, and Black Diamond for the third annual Salt Lake Craggin' Classic held at the Peruvian Lodge in Alta, Utah. This is a weekend long event that focuses on providing education in the way of competency clinics from Mountain Education and Development. We'll kick off the event on Saturday morning with yoga by Lululemon Athletica and breakfast by presenting sponsor Black Diamond, then we'll move into a day of clinics with MED and some amazing athletes sent our way by the great collection of partners we have this year. Get ready, because Saturday night you'll get fed by your favorite Nepalese restaurant, the Himalayan Kitchen and Moab Brewery will be pouring their finest beverages for the adult crowd. Grab a seat and enjoy the slideshow and banjo picking by pro climber, Mason Earle. Games on the Peruvian lawn by vendors and then get ready for the dance party with the musical genius, Matty D! Don't stay out too late, you've got some climbing to do the next day! mountained.formstack.com/forms...
By Tofu Brain
Aug 5, 2015
I googled the name but got no results..
I have seen a lot hangers/quick links with this na...
I have seen a lot hangers/quick links with this name on it, any idea who this Caldeboner is?
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