|Little Cottonwood Canyon
Valley View from Crescent Crack Buttress
LCC offers primarily quartz monzonite (white granite, essentially) with a few areas of limestone.
Trad, sport, bouldering, and ice climbing are all well-represented here. Most of the climbs are on the sunnier, north side of the canyon, but shade may be found for those hot summer days. In addition, north-facing classic routes are found on the south side of the canyon (see especially Pentapitch Area and Coal Pit Buttress.
On the north side of the canyon, roughly from The Egg past the Gate Buttress, the rock is either owned by or the approaches to the tock cross land owned by the LDS Church. Be considerate when crossing/using these areas.
The Wasatch Resort about one mile up the canyon on the right (south) presents access problems to some of the crags on that side of the canyon as well.
This is a well known area. The Falcon guide has numerous routes listed, but realistically only 2 that come in real thick (at least that I've seen in the last 7 years of my ice climbing experience). There are a lot of other thin routes throughout the canyon. The 2 main lines are Scruffy Band and the Great White Icicle. The GW Icicle has always got a crowd! Last year I went up there at 10 at night for a late night run up the ice thinking the route would be free. There were still 2 groups just starting up the trail. This wouldn't be too bad, but the route is somewhat narrow, so anyone climbing above you will knock ice on you. So if you're looking for a remote, backcountry experience, this is not the area. Both Scruffy and GW icicle have easy approaches (10-30min) and the routes are moderate in difficulty (WI 2-3). So if you want a close easy climb with a crowd, these are probably good places to climb.
From the I-215 beltway around Salt Lake, take the 6200 South exit at the southeast corner of the loop. Follow signs to the ski resorts and Big and Little Cottonwood canyon. Pass the left turn into BCC and continue on Wasatch Blvd (Route 210) for a few more miles. This road leads directly up into LCC. From the south, exit I-15 at 9000 South (Route 209). Head east as 209 becomes 9400 South and eventually hits Wasatch (210) at the mouth of LCC. Turn right and head up the canyon. (camping info#littlecottonwood)
Browse More Classics in Little Cottonwood Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Little Cottonwood Canyon:
Featured Route For Little Cottonwood Canyon
Check the Technique
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Westwind Buttress
Check the Technique was the first route to be opened on the Perseverance Wall. Climb the right-leaning, fist-to-offwidth crack along the left side of the obvious flake-pillar. From a stance atop the flake, step left onto the beautiful slab past perfect diorite knobs and four bolts to an arching arete. Lieback this feature to an alcove; a large, slung horn provides a belay. This route is dedicated to the memory of Guru--Hip-Hop pioneer and MC founder of the seminal duo, Gang Starr--...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Just some of the scenery up this beautiful canyon....
view of Cecret Lake & unknown formations (there ha...
Looking up LCC from Maybird
Mystery route between Humane Society Wall and Cont...
Clay Calhoon works a route at the edge of the Gree...
I love running into these guys. They're so inspiri...
What its all about. Good friends, good beer, and ...
The Pres drilling on lead for First Ascent of AY O...
Leading the second pitch of the grooves. The bolt...
BETA PHOTO: Bottom of LCC.
I love this place.
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaah, fall in LCC...
Shot taken from the south side on the Super Slab
view from pentapitch!
Bushwhack Crack, LCC
Looking up LCC from the top of Mexican Crack
Little Cottonwood river in the late fall.
|Comments on Little Cottonwood Canyon
|By Perin Blanchard|
From: Orem, UT
May 20, 2013
See the SLCA page
Salt Lake Climbers,
The SLCA, in partnership with the Salt Lake Ranger District (SLRD) of the United States Forest Service (USFS) and the Wasatch Legacy Project, has reached a major milestone with the release of the scoping notice for the Grit Mill and Climbing Master Plan Project in lower Little Cottonwood Canyon. This project affects the majority of the bouldering and roped climbing on Forest Service lands north of State Highway 210 between the Little Cottonwood Park and Ride lot and the Grit Mill.
The SLCA’s vision for the outcome of this project is the development of sustainable access to the crags and boulders that takes into account the needs for centralized, transit-friendly trail-heads, traffic safety, and watershed protection. We support the removal of the Grit Mill and the rehabilitation of the surrounding area as it has become an attractive nuisance and target for vandalism.
Please refer to the scoping notice for more details of the draft proposed action.
For the past decade, the SLCA has been, and will continue to be a proponent in the planning and implementation of this project on behalf of climbers, but we need your help. During this initial scoping period, from now until June 14th, it is important that YOU, as a member of the climbing community, contribute scoping comments to the USFS. They are looking to the public to help shape the proposed action and additional alternatives for analysis as part of an Environmental Assessment (EA) in compliance with the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA). It is important to understand that this is step one in a process that will include another 30-day scoping period later this summer where a preferred action will be proposed.
The SLCA will be posting our comments to the Forest Service during this scoping period which you can use to help formulate your own responses. In the meantime, please let us know your thoughts and opinions on the proposed action. After all, the SLCA is here to represent the climbing community. Please send comments to SLCA Execuitive Director, Julia Geisler, or to the USFS. The SLCA woud be happy to answer any questions that you may have. Come out to our 4th Annual Black Diamond Sponsored Fundraiser May 30th 6-10pm to give comment as well. Thank you.
| || |Grit Mill Scoping Notice Information
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on May 20, 2013
|By Anonymous Coward|
Dec 28, 2001
Little Cottonwood is an infamous area with a rich history of great traditional climbs, bouldering, and superb backcountry skiing. The rock is a very solid granite variation and offers many excellent cam and nut placements. Most routes have bolted belays, a very nice luxury, and all offer amazing climbing in equally amazing settings. Boulering is definitely not to be over looked, the canyon contains numerous routes ranging from V0 to V13. There are many bouldering spots, so one can find solitude and most offer extremely short approaches. No matter what type of climbing you are looking to do, Little Cottonwood Canyon will offer some of the best routes in wonderful and surreal settings.
|By Taylor Morgan|
From: Draper, UT
Jan 11, 2011
Snowbird has proposed to build a roller coaster in Little Cottonwood Canyon, on the lower south face of Mt. Superior:
I strongly oppose Snowbird's plans to build a roller coaster on the lower south face of Mt. Superior, across from and over Little Cottonwood Canyon Road.
Snowbird claims the proposed site is not used by hikers or backcountry skiers. This is not accurate. The area is on the southwest face of Mt. Superior, directly adjacent its summer trailhead/winter access points. This area is one of the most popular and treasured mountaineering, hiking, and backcountry skiing areas in Utah.
Furthermore, Mt. Superior is among the most beautiful and photographed areas in Utah, and the West. In fact, the 1976 Denver Olympic Bid Committee used a photo of Mt. Superior on its official bid packet.
While the proposed roller coaster will not directly inhibit mountaineering, hiking, or skiing, it will significantly diminish these pursuits and will be an embarrassing eyesore in Little Cottonwood Canyon.
Utah residents and tourists visit our canyons to play in the mountains, not on amusement-park rides.
Please contact your member of the Salt Lake County Council to urge them to oppose Snowbird's plans.
|By J Geisler|
Dec 19, 2012
| || |Great White Icicle Access Map
Submitted By: J Geisler on Dec 19, 2012
ATTN: CLIMBERS ACCESSING THE GREAT WHITE ICICLE AND OTHER AREAS ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF LITTLE COTTONWOOD CREEK
For years ice and rock climbers have accessed the Great White Icicle and other south side areas by using the bridge and parking at the site of a small hydro electric plant a couple of miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. In 2010, the current owner, Cottonwood Hydro, was forced to remove the bridge during a flood event that threatened the plant. Since then, Cottonwood Hydro has posted no trespassing and no parking signs to protect the plant operations and access to their private property.
As a responsible climber, you can help improve the SLCA’s relationship with Cottonwood Hydro. Do not trespass or block the area and avoid the no parking and hydro hazard areas. Keep off the pipe, intake structures, and dam at all times! During times of low water, access the south side of the creek by using the recommended cross- country route shown in the map. During times of high water, use one of the bridges along the Little Cottonwood Trail provided by Cottonwood Hydro in partnership with the USFS. Bridges are located approximately ½ mile upstream or ¾ mile downstream of this location. When possible, carpool from a Park and Ride to conserve the limited, available parking. Thanks for your cooperation!
|By Anson Call|
Mar 30, 2013
BEWARE of TICKS! My wife and I were in the lower parts of the canyon today. A few hours after we left, she discovered a tick on the back of her neck, just above her hairline. CREEPY and DANGEROUS! Ticks can carry some pretty nasty diseases, like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. It's something most people don't even think about, but they can be a real hazard - especially in the spring. Every time you leave the canyon, be sure to check your skin and scalp for these nasty buggers!
Mar 30, 2013
Thanks! I never thought of that. What does a tick look like?
Apr 12, 2013
Is there any snow left on the ground at Little CottonWood Canyon ?
I'd like to do some multipitches and wondering if i can descend safely without crampons or icepick from the summit .
I am planning to be in SLC between April 20 and May 4