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Little Cottonwood Canyon
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Albion Basin 
Allen's Ridge Area 
Altered States Gully 
Black Peeler Buttress 
Bongeater Buttress 
Bouldering 
Burner Buttress 
Cake Wall 
Coal Pit Buttress 
Coffin Buttress 
Commitment Buttress 
Contact Buttress 
Crescent Crack Buttress 
Dragon Arch 
Eagle Buttress and Environs 
Early Bird 
Egg, The 
Fin, The 
Gargoyle Wall 
Gate Buttress 
Great White Icicle Area 
Green Adjective Gully 
Hellgate Cliffs 
Hogum Fork 
Humane society wall  
Industrial Wall 
Intensive Care Slab 
Keel, The 
Kermits Wall and Perhaps Area 
Lisa Falls 
Lizard Head Wall 
Lonely Bashie Buttress 
Lots of Balls Slab 
Maybird Slide Area 
Memorial Day Buttress 
Pawn, The 
Pentapitch Area 
Perla's Ridge and Environs 
Peruvian Buttress 
Plumb Line Gully 
Red Pine Crag 
Resort Buttress 
Rodeo Buttress 
Sail, The 
Scruffy Band 
Super Slab 
Swamp, The 
Tanners Gulch 
Team Serious Wall 
Thumb Area, The 
Triangle Wall 
Upper Burner Wall 
Waterfront, The 
Westwind Buttress 
Wheeler-Newsome Wall 

Little Cottonwood Canyon 


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Lat, Long: 40.5727, -111.777 Map
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Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 2, 2001

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Valley View from Crescent Crack Buttress

Description 

LCC offers primarily quartz monzonite (white granite, essentially) with a few areas of limestone.

Trad, sport, bouldering, and ice climbing are all well-represented here. Most of the climbs are on the sunnier, north side of the canyon, but shade may be found for those hot summer days. In addition, north-facing classic routes are found on the south side of the canyon (see especially Pentapitch Area and Coal Pit Buttress.

On the north side of the canyon, roughly from The Egg past the Gate Buttress, the rock is either owned by or the approaches to the tock cross land owned by the LDS Church. Be considerate when crossing/using these areas.

The Wasatch Resort about one mile up the canyon on the right (south) presents access problems to some of the crags on that side of the canyon as well.


Ice Climbing 

This is a well known area. The Falcon guide has numerous routes listed, but realistically only 2 that come in real thick (at least that I've seen in the last 7 years of my ice climbing experience). There are a lot of other thin routes throughout the canyon. The 2 main lines are Scruffy Band and the Great White Icicle. The GW Icicle has always got a crowd! Last year I went up there at 10 at night for a late night run up the ice thinking the route would be free. There were still 2 groups just starting up the trail. This wouldn't be too bad, but the route is somewhat narrow, so anyone climbing above you will knock ice on you. So if you're looking for a remote, backcountry experience, this is not the area. Both Scruffy and GW icicle have easy approaches (10-30min) and the routes are moderate in difficulty (WI 2-3). So if you want a close easy climb with a crowd, these are probably good places to climb.


Getting There 

From the I-215 beltway around Salt Lake, take the 6200 South exit at the southeast corner of the loop. Follow signs to the ski resorts and Big and Little Cottonwood canyon. Pass the left turn into BCC and continue on Wasatch Blvd (Route 210) for a few more miles. This road leads directly up into LCC. From the south, exit I-15 at 9000 South (Route 209). Head east as 209 becomes 9400 South and eventually hits Wasatch (210) at the mouth of LCC. Turn right and head up the canyon. (camping info#littlecottonwood)


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Little Cottonwood Canyon:
Schoolroom   5.6     Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area
Crescent Crack   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   Crescent Crack Buttress
Beckey's Wall   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 160 feet   Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area
Pentapitch   5.8     Trad   Pentapitch Area
Satan's Corner   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet   Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area
Bushwhack Crack   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area
The Coffin   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Coffin Buttress
After The Fall   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Green Adjective Gully
The Green Adjective   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar...
S-Direct   5.9+ R     Trad, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   The Thumb Area
Gordon's Hangover   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar...
Sasquatch   5.9+     Trad   Pentapitch Area
Mexican Crack   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Crescent Crack Buttress
Black Streak   5.10a/b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   Albion Basin : Devil's Castle
The Fin Arete   5.10b R     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   The Fin
Bongeater   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Bongeater Buttress
The Dorsal Fin   5.10d     Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II   The Fin
Stiffler's Mom   5.11a     Trad, 12 pitches, 1300 feet, Grade III   Coal Pit Buttress
Trench Warfare   5.12+     Trad, 60 feet   Allen's Ridge Area
Fallen Arches   5.13a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Green Adjective Gully
Browse More Classics in Little Cottonwood Canyon

Featured Route For Little Cottonwood Canyon
"I'm like a neurosurgeon, <br /> operatin' with a purer version. <br /> I write prescriptions, <br /> of words that fit in. <br /> The thought gets prescribed,  <br /> as I kick it live. <br /> 'Cause it's more than a style, <br /> it's conceptual genius." <br />                        --Guru <br /> from the album, "Step into the Arena"

Check the Technique 5.10-  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Westwind Buttress
Check the Technique was the first route to be opened on the Perseverance Wall. Climb the right-leaning, fist-to-offwidth crack along the left side of the obvious flake-pillar. From a stance atop the flake, step left onto the beautiful slab past perfect diorite knobs and four bolts to an arching arete. Lieback this feature to an alcove; a large, slung horn provides a belay. This route is dedicated to the memory of Guru--Hip-Hop pioneer and MC founder of the seminal duo, Gang Starr--...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Little Cottonwood Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Just some of the scenery up this beautiful canyon. (Cecret Lake)

Just some of the scenery up this beautiful canyon....

view of Cecret Lake & unknown formations (there has gotta be climbing up there)

view of Cecret Lake & unknown formations (there ha...

Looking up LCC from Maybird

Looking up LCC from Maybird

Mystery route between Humane Society Wall and Contact Buttress.  You can see the chains just above the lip on the slab.

Mystery route between Humane Society Wall and Cont...

Clay Calhoon works a route at the edge of the Green Adjective Gully in the Fall of 2005.

Clay Calhoon works a route at the edge of the Gree...

I love running into these guys. They're so inspiring to watch. This little one is showing me how to work the slabs.

I love running into these guys. They're so inspiri...

What its all about.  Good friends, good beer, and good routes.

What its all about. Good friends, good beer, and ...

The Pres drilling on lead for First Ascent of AY OH! <br />

The Pres drilling on lead for First Ascent of AY O...

Leading the second pitch of the grooves.  The bolt in the pitcure is of the route AY OH!.

Leading the second pitch of the grooves. The bolt...

sun set

sun set

Bottom of LCC.

BETA PHOTO: Bottom of LCC.

Heeey Goat!

Heeey Goat!

I love this place.

I love this place.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaah, fall in LCC...

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaah, fall in LCC...

Shot taken from the south side on the Super Slab

Shot taken from the south side on the Super Slab

LCC Granite

LCC Granite

view from pentapitch!

view from pentapitch!

Bushwhack Crack, LCC

Bushwhack Crack, LCC

Looking up LCC from the top of Mexican Crack

Looking up LCC from the top of Mexican Crack

Little Cottonwood river in the late fall.

Little Cottonwood river in the late fall.


Comments on Little Cottonwood Canyon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 12, 2013
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
May 20, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 

See the SLCA page

Salt Lake Climbers,

The SLCA, in partnership with the Salt Lake Ranger District (SLRD) of the United States Forest Service (USFS) and the Wasatch Legacy Project, has reached a major milestone with the release of the scoping notice for the Grit Mill and Climbing Master Plan Project in lower Little Cottonwood Canyon. This project affects the majority of the bouldering and roped climbing on Forest Service lands north of State Highway 210 between the Little Cottonwood Park and Ride lot and the Grit Mill.

The SLCA’s vision for the outcome of this project is the development of sustainable access to the crags and boulders that takes into account the needs for centralized, transit-friendly trail-heads, traffic safety, and watershed protection. We support the removal of the Grit Mill and the rehabilitation of the surrounding area as it has become an attractive nuisance and target for vandalism.
Please refer to the scoping notice for more details of the draft proposed action.

For the past decade, the SLCA has been, and will continue to be a proponent in the planning and implementation of this project on behalf of climbers, but we need your help. During this initial scoping period, from now until June 14th, it is important that YOU, as a member of the climbing community, contribute scoping comments to the USFS. They are looking to the public to help shape the proposed action and additional alternatives for analysis as part of an Environmental Assessment (EA) in compliance with the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA). It is important to understand that this is step one in a process that will include another 30-day scoping period later this summer where a preferred action will be proposed.

The SLCA will be posting our comments to the Forest Service during this scoping period which you can use to help formulate your own responses. In the meantime, please let us know your thoughts and opinions on the proposed action. After all, the SLCA is here to represent the climbing community. Please send comments to SLCA Execuitive Director, Julia Geisler, or to the USFS. The SLCA woud be happy to answer any questions that you may have. Come out to our 4th Annual Black Diamond Sponsored Fundraiser May 30th 6-10pm to give comment as well. Thank you.

Grit Mill Scoping Notice Information
Grit Mill Scoping Notice Information
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on May 20, 2013

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 28, 2001

Little Cottonwood is an infamous area with a rich history of great traditional climbs, bouldering, and superb backcountry skiing. The rock is a very solid granite variation and offers many excellent cam and nut placements. Most routes have bolted belays, a very nice luxury, and all offer amazing climbing in equally amazing settings. Boulering is definitely not to be over looked, the canyon contains numerous routes ranging from V0 to V13. There are many bouldering spots, so one can find solitude and most offer extremely short approaches. No matter what type of climbing you are looking to do, Little Cottonwood Canyon will offer some of the best routes in wonderful and surreal settings.

By Taylor Morgan
From: Draper, UT
Jan 11, 2011

Snowbird has proposed to build a roller coaster in Little Cottonwood Canyon, on the lower south face of Mt. Superior:

www.deseretnews.com/article/705364186/Snowbird-resort-seeks->>>


I strongly oppose Snowbird's plans to build a roller coaster on the lower south face of Mt. Superior, across from and over Little Cottonwood Canyon Road.

Snowbird claims the proposed site is not used by hikers or backcountry skiers. This is not accurate. The area is on the southwest face of Mt. Superior, directly adjacent its summer trailhead/winter access points. This area is one of the most popular and treasured mountaineering, hiking, and backcountry skiing areas in Utah.

Furthermore, Mt. Superior is among the most beautiful and photographed areas in Utah, and the West. In fact, the 1976 Denver Olympic Bid Committee used a photo of Mt. Superior on its official bid packet.

While the proposed roller coaster will not directly inhibit mountaineering, hiking, or skiing, it will significantly diminish these pursuits and will be an embarrassing eyesore in Little Cottonwood Canyon.

Utah residents and tourists visit our canyons to play in the mountains, not on amusement-park rides.

Please contact your member of the Salt Lake County Council to urge them to oppose Snowbird's plans.

By J Geisler
Dec 19, 2012

Great White Icicle Access Map
Great White Icicle Access Map
Submitted By: J Geisler on Dec 19, 2012


ATTN: CLIMBERS ACCESSING THE GREAT WHITE ICICLE AND OTHER AREAS ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF LITTLE COTTONWOOD CREEK

For years ice and rock climbers have accessed the Great White Icicle and other south side areas by using the bridge and parking at the site of a small hydro electric plant a couple of miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. In 2010, the current owner, Cottonwood Hydro, was forced to remove the bridge during a flood event that threatened the plant. Since then, Cottonwood Hydro has posted no trespassing and no parking signs to protect the plant operations and access to their private property.

As a responsible climber, you can help improve the SLCA’s relationship with Cottonwood Hydro. Do not trespass or block the area and avoid the no parking and hydro hazard areas. Keep off the pipe, intake structures, and dam at all times! During times of low water, access the south side of the creek by using the recommended cross- country route shown in the map. During times of high water, use one of the bridges along the Little Cottonwood Trail provided by Cottonwood Hydro in partnership with the USFS. Bridges are located approximately ½ mile upstream or ¾ mile downstream of this location. When possible, carpool from a Park and Ride to conserve the limited, available parking. Thanks for your cooperation!

By Anson Call
Mar 30, 2013

BEWARE of TICKS! My wife and I were in the lower parts of the canyon today. A few hours after we left, she discovered a tick on the back of her neck, just above her hairline. CREEPY and DANGEROUS! Ticks can carry some pretty nasty diseases, like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. It's something most people don't even think about, but they can be a real hazard - especially in the spring. Every time you leave the canyon, be sure to check your skin and scalp for these nasty buggers!

By zoso
Mar 30, 2013

Thanks! I never thought of that. What does a tick look like?

By waltereo
Apr 12, 2013

Is there any snow left on the ground at Little CottonWood Canyon ?

I'd like to do some multipitches and wondering if i can descend safely without crampons or icepick from the summit .


I am planning to be in SLC between April 20 and May 4


Thanks