Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
96 Degrees 
Almost Blue 
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj 
Buttercup 
Deputy, The 
Dreadlock Holiday 
Duran Duran 
Duran's Pharmacy 
Full Penetration 
Gank Move 
If You Can't Do It Glue It 
Inchworm Arete 
Insider Trading 
Little Caterpillar 
New Kids on the Block 
Red Tag Sale 
Sinister Dane 
Spreadlock Holiday 
Too High for Bry 
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe 
Unknown Lance Route 
Window Shopping 

Little Caterpillar 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 768
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 27, 2006
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This route is in your face crimping nearly the entire way. If you just stopped by on your way back from Enchanted Tower this thing will feel pretty hard for the grade. Like most routes here, this is essentially a long boulder problem with small sharp holds and few rests. Rather technical.


Location 

This is at the far right end of the wall, 2nd route from the right. There's a huge flat boulder just above the start that's excellent for viewing and/or TR belaying.


Protection 

Bolts



Comments on Little Caterpillar Add Comment
Show which comments
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 17, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

I found this route to be more powerful than technical, but maybe I just substituted power for technique. This route packs alot for only being 35 feet long. Hard crimping and several long deadpoints passing the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 1, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

I found it technical but my beta apparently was completely different than DTP's. After finally sending my fingers were close to bloody. The crimps are pretty sharp.

By Dave Wachter
Dec 12, 2008

Yeah, I sliced into the pad of a finger on my left hand, and had little bruises on several other fingertips. Climbing was so engrossing I didn't notice the pain until I got back to the ground, though. Another funky Socorro classic! I'm upping the ante on stars.