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Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
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Little Caterpillar 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 781
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

This route is in your face crimping nearly the entire way. If you just stopped by on your way back from Enchanted Tower this thing will feel pretty hard for the grade. Like most routes here, this is essentially a long boulder problem with small sharp holds and few rests. Rather technical.


Location 

This is at the far right end of the wall, 2nd route from the right. There's a huge flat boulder just above the start that's excellent for viewing and/or TR belaying.


Protection 

Bolts



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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 17, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I found this route to be more powerful than technical, but maybe I just substituted power for technique. This route packs alot for only being 35 feet long. Hard crimping and several long deadpoints passing the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 1, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I found it technical but my beta apparently was completely different than DTP's. After finally sending my fingers were close to bloody. The crimps are pretty sharp.

By Dave Wachter
Dec 12, 2008

Yeah, I sliced into the pad of a finger on my left hand, and had little bruises on several other fingertips. Climbing was so engrossing I didn't notice the pain until I got back to the ground, though. Another funky Socorro classic! I'm upping the ante on stars.