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Wheeler Gorge
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Little Buckaroo S 
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Wheel, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Little Buckaroo 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Matthew Fienup & Jesse Groves
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 641
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jun 30, 2009

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Jesse Groves follows Little Buckaroo during the ro...

Description 

Sustained, sequential slab climbing on solid rock. The route heads straight up for four bolts, traverses left for 10 feet and then continues straight up to the top.

The first crux is passing the 2nd bolt, on tiny crimps. The route's true crux is passing the 6th bolt--stay directly over the bolt for full value.


Location 

The line of bolts just left of Blush.


Protection 

9 bolts (Fixe Triplex & 1/2" Rawls), bolted anchor with Supershuts.



Photos of Little Buckaroo Slideshow Add Photo
Jesse Groves on Little Buckaroo, at Wheeler Gorge.
Jesse Groves on Little Buckaroo, at Wheeler Gorge.
Comments on Little Buckaroo Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jun 30, 2009

In terms of difficulty, Little Buckaroo is harder than Blush, is comparable to Exodus (if you follow that route's last bolt), and would probably only be 10c in Josh or Yosemite.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 9, 2009

A nice addition to the area. Good work, guys!

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 9, 2009

While this route just barely squeezes between two other routes, its moves are distinct, engaging, and quite memorable. I'm surprised this line has gone unnoticed for so long. Beware grabbing any holds on the "roof" above the third and fourth bolts, as the rock quality is not inspiring.

I'm guessing Mike and I have the third ascent?

Just kidding...

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 10, 2009

Believe it or not, when Jesse and I climbed this route, we were not even high enough that we could've touched the roof had we wanted to. We traversed below the third and fourth bolts. This also means that we did not clean any of the loose rock above the roof.

And the rock felt like Yosemite granite compared to the Fortress ;)