Little Black Sambo  5.9+

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Type:  Trad, 120 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Season:  Spring, Summer, Fall Submitted By:  Dave Daly on Dec 14, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

'Little Black Sambo', 5.9 (as some locals are call...

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Description 

Start up the small right facing crack/corner (5.7 fingers) to the appex of the crack. At the top of the crack, there is a 2" undercling (good pro). Head above this undercling (slightly height dependant) to a small dishy ledge and up a left facing corner. Once in the left facing corner, climb 20 feet and look for a small ledge that traverses to the right out onto the open face. The first bolt is located just at the end of the ledge. Climb past this bolt onto 5.7 slab (nice holes and dimples for features). Reach a second bolt, which protects a few 5.8 slab friction moves. Continue up and slightly left, aiming for a steep overlap. Once at the overlap (3/8 Alien), cross left over onto steeper face climbing (sustained 5.9) and then climb up past a flaring horizontal crack. Above the crack is the third and final bolt, clip the bolt and ascend 6 more feet to the top of the wall. No anchors on top other than a small scraggly cedar tree, 10 feet to the right of the routes intended finish.

Location 

When first approaching the Courtright area, locate a gravel pullout on the right side of Courtright Road (next to the PG&E access gate). At the top end of the gravel pullout, locate a small rock cairne that identifies the trail to the Tiger Cage/Tiger Wall area. Follow this trail around the right side of segmented and terraced rock formation. As the trail bends left, a wall on the left side appears. This is Tiger Cage. Continue 50 yards further and locate a small right facing crack corner on a smooth polished slab. This crack/corner ascends 25 feet and then arches to the right. This is the start of 'Little Black Sambo'

Protection 

Essential Gear

+ A 60 meter rope (Barely reaches the ground if lowering from the final bolt)
+ 6 Quickdraws
+ pro to 2" (#1 Camelot and 3/8" Alien works just fine!)

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The start of Little Black Sambo