||Aid, 2 pitches, 230'
|Original: ||A1 [details]|
|FA: ||Mike Baker, Leslie Henderson, Lindsey ArcherMarch 1993|
|Page Views: ||989|
|Submitted By: ||Troy from Tooele on Nov 4, 2002|
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Little Bighorn Pinnacle and Split Decision, direct...
This spire/pinnacle/tower (whatever you want to call it) is located up Kodel's Canyon. Look in Bjorstad's DESERT ROCK III book (page 256,257) for directions. This route ascends the NORTH face of Little Bighorn. The bottom is wide, then it narrows near the top. Clip two drilled angles, then end the first pitch on a spacious ledge. The second pitch ascend a bolt ladder. These bolts could have been avoided with beaks and small blades. Above these bolts are a few spicy free moves to the summit. BRING A HANDRILL, AND PUT IN TWO MORE BOLTS FOR THE SUMMIT ANCHOR!!! You might want to bring a long sling (6') so you can drill the anchor further away from the original anchor. The original anchor consists of two drilled angles in white sandstone. There are multiple cracks around each angle. This anchor is very suspect. O.K. route. Great Location and Solitude. -tda
Bring a set of cams. Make Sure you lug one #3.5 CAMALOT, two #4 CAMALOTS, one #4.5 CAMALOTS. These large boys make life easier.
Start the route up on the ledge... you can easily ...
By Ryan Jennings
Nov 7, 2005
The rock around the pitons on the summit is starting to deteriorate. [Definitely] could use replacement. Also beware of the last two pins on the ladder as they are loosening. Climbed this on two hex, one nut stacks for the first 30 feet! Made it A-scary. BRING THE BIG CAMS! Also bring a new piece of paper for the summit register the [original] is full with eight or nine ascents. Fun climb in a nice canyon.
Mar 28, 2011
The anchor on the summit was backed up with a new bolt at some point since '05, so no need for the hand drill. I left a few extra pieces of paper in the summit register. This is a cool little tower, definitely worth checking out. To approach, park at the unmarked dirt pullout just 100 yards past King View Drive on the right, if you're heading towards the West Entrance. Take the trail through the break in the fence that's marked with a Monument sign. Follow trail K1 to K7 and enter Kodel's Canyon from there.