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Little Big Man 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ed Esmond 12/99
Page Views: 1,778
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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otey topping out...

Description 

Awkward moves lead up to a few crimpy moves to the right. For shorter folks a big move right to a big hold is the crux. After gaining this hold, it's like 5.9 to the top, steep but with big holds.

Fun moves on nice rock.

Check out this video of the climb:


Location 

From the central, Main Cliff area, walk down and left along the bottom section of the cliff. This section is the steep wall on your right as you look down the sketchy scramble with the fixed rope in it.


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 ring bolt anchor.



Photos of Little Big Man Slideshow Add Photo
otey stretching through the crux...
otey stretching through the crux...
Lily climbing the top of Little Big Man...on a cold day with only a tease of warm sun....
Lily climbing the top of Little Big Man...on a col...
Lily making the last few moves before her crux....
Lily making the last few moves before her crux....
the bucket undercling the marks the end of the tough stuff...
the bucket undercling the marks the end of the tou...
Nice angle in this picture.
Nice angle in this picture.
Comments on Little Big Man Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 8, 2013
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 29, 2008

i climbed this route again today and found it to be more fun than last time... an interesting and fun one for sure... love the jugs at the end...

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Sep 2, 2008

The mantle move on this is pretty awesome.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 9, 2009

just posted a video of the route... check it out:

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 13, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Cool video lee makes me wanna get on this route

anyone know the name of the route to the left of this route?

By James Otey
From: NH
Jun 13, 2009

Ali Babbler, 5.11c

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 13, 2009

glad you like the video matt, i plan to make and post more of them...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 13, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Thanks James and Lee def make more they are always a cool thing to look at

By twellman
Feb 16, 2010

Lots of fun climbing all jammed into about 20 feet. A variety of techniques, too.

It is possible to skip a large part of the start by climbing up the ramp on the right into the corner below the right-facing jug flake, then going straight for the jug! Probably less fun, but a nice variation. Probably good to stick clip 2nd bolt first.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 17, 2012

Worked on this with a friend this past Saturday. He led the first half, and I led the second. This will be my new project!

By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Jun 6, 2013

A fun short bouldery route. That drop-knee is deeeeep, it feels like spring-loading your leg.

By J Meagher
Aug 29, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Does anybody use the tiny undercling chip as an intermediate when going out right to the first big flake?

By S. Neoh
Aug 29, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

No, not me. There is an undercling chip? Huh.

By J Meagher
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Finally sent this today after 6 tries over 3 weeks. Great intro to the grade, with cool dynamic moves on big holds and a fun topout. Also nice for those new to the realm of 5.11 because of the clean falls. The crux for me was gaining the first big sidepull. To get this hold I put my left hand on the lower of the two crimps, put my right foot on the sloper on the vertical arÍte, flag my left foot, then throw out right. The following moves are quite pumpy and very good