Awkward moves lead up to a few crimpy moves to the right. For shorter folks a big move right to a big hold is the crux. After gaining this hold, it's like 5.9 to the top, steep but with big holds.
Fun moves on nice rock.
Check out this video of the climb:
From the central, Main Cliff area, walk down and left along the bottom section of the cliff. This section is the steep wall on your right as you look down the sketchy scramble with the fixed rope in it.
Lots of fun climbing all jammed into about 20 feet. A variety of techniques, too.
It is possible to skip a large part of the start by climbing up the ramp on the right into the corner below the right-facing jug flake, then going straight for the jug! Probably less fun, but a nice variation. Probably good to stick clip 2nd bolt first.
A fun short bouldery route. That drop-knee is deeeeep, it feels like spring-loading your leg.
By J Meagher Aug 29, 2013 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-E4 6a
Does anybody use the tiny undercling chip as an intermediate when going out right to the first big flake?
By S. Neoh Aug 29, 2013 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-E3 5c
No, not me. There is an undercling chip? Huh.
By J Meagher Sep 8, 2013 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-E4 6a
Finally sent this today after 6 tries over 3 weeks. Great intro to the grade, with cool dynamic moves on big holds and a fun topout. Also nice for those new to the realm of 5.11 because of the clean falls. The crux for me was gaining the first big sidepull. To get this hold I put my left hand on the lower of the two crimps, put my right foot on the sloper on the vertical arÍte, flag my left foot, then throw out right. The following moves are quite pumpy and very good